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this happened to me too man i had my driver and passenger go out and i heard if more people complain to audi that they might refund your money and have a recall. but i dont know if that is true
 

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this happened to me too man i had my driver and passenger go out and i heard if more people complain to audi that they might refund your money and have a recall. but i dont know if that is true
After panamared told me about it I complained to Audi right away. I figure, why not? It's ridiculous that something that's used that much is made of such soft material. If you guys ever need the company's name that sold me my replacement let me know. It's still working great and like I said before in this thread, all of the $#!tty plastic parts are replaced with metal ones. :cool:
 

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Yeah, where did you get your replacement regulator?
Ebay. I think the guys name was "goingfast_ny" but I'm sure you'll find what you're looking for. Be sure to get a picture of the actual product. I was a bit surprised that my reg. didn't look like the stock one in the supplied picture and had to check the box to make sure that the wrong one wasn't grabbed off the shelf. It was the correct match and like I said in one of the previous post, I was happy to see that much of the cheap plastics were replaced with metal. :D It all still works too so I can't complain. (knock on wood)


-04A4
 

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Yeah, where did you get your replacement regulator?
After having the dealer replace my passenger side regulator to the tune of about $600 (about $120 was the crappy Audi regulator), I decided to replace my own when the driver's side died. AutoPartsWarehouse is where I found mine. They sell both the poorly designed mostly plastic one from Audi as well as one with metal parts and a better design by Pimax. I went with the latter, and it was cheaper.

The high labor cost for the window replacement is due to the fact that replacing the regulator is not for the faint of heart; it's a long task, with a ton of parts to remove carefully (lest you rip delicate foam sound barriers or break things) in the correct order, and then replace things in the opposite order. Luckily, after a bit of searching the web, I located a thread somewhere where some guy did a phenomenal job of documenting the proper order, step by step, and with pictures. I can't remember where that was. I just searched for it, and instead I found a newer one done by someone else who used the same one I did, but he found a few confusing places as did I (he claims errors), so he did his own version. It's pretty good: DIY: B6 A4 Window Regulator & Motor Replacement - Audizine Forums

Also -- if you go with the Pimax unit, here is one very important installation warning: the Pimax unit comes with a plastic zip-tie around the central wheel to keep it from moving. The instructions are terse and confusing. On the very first page it seems to warn you that you must remove this tie. Yes -- if you don't, of course, the wheel can't turn, so you do have to do that. Since it's on the first page, I did it first thing. And the darned thing exploded as if I'd taken the back off a clock mechanism and the spring had jumped out. I wasted an hour figuring out how to "re-string" the regulator properly and with only two hands. Then, I see on page three of the Pimax installation guide the point at which the terse instructions mention removing the tie -- after the regulator is mounted inside the car door. That way it can spring apart. Yeah. Thanks for being clear about that. Well, the part is made in Europe (Italy, I think) so the instructions were translated to English. Ah well.

But, I still like the Pimax regulator. I wish I had one in the passenger side door. I'm just waiting for the OEM replacement to die in a year or two.
 

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...a long task, with a ton of parts to remove carefully

Hi all,

This thread has been really helpful. Despite best efforts, the removal of the door panel lead to catastrophic failure of at least one of the clip bosses on my '05 A4.

Any ideas on how to repair this (new) project? Thanks in advance.
 

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window regulators

Both my driver and passenger side regulators have had broken cables. 60,000 miles 2005 a4. World Pac has oem replacements for a reasonable cost. Ordered mine from Carquest and replaced them myself. Approximately 2.0 hours for each side.
 

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will a new regulator fix this?

I have a similar but different problem. My front driver side window will sometimes not roll down. This usually happens after I have rolled it all the way up and the car is turned off. If I leave the window cracked the problem occurs less frequently, but will still randomly occur. When the window exhibits this problem, using the switch I can still roll it up to the top, but pushing the switch down has no effect (no clicking, motor noise, etc).

The only way I have found to fix this problem is by disconnecting the cars battery over night. Without fail, this will (temporarily) fix the issue and my driver's side window again works as expected.

I've had various electrical problems with the car including a bad Central Convenience Module that fails to respond in VAG (and which I have not yet replaced). Does anyone know if my problem is more likely the sign of a bad window regulator, or bad CCM?
 

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Two regulators at the same time

Thanks to everyone for posting on this thread. Finally got straight answer about why two rear windows (2004 A6) both went haywire at same time. Not happy about the cost to fix, but can't drive around with windows randomly going up and down either. Getting less happy with Audi by the day.
 

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First post to this forum so be gentle. I have been successful at fixing these cheap. Audi window assemblies are great in that the whole regulator and window come out of the car as one unit. Other cars require removing the glass from the track.

That said I have seen two failures (apart from electronic) that kill the window. Both are plastic. First is the fracture of the upper pulley that runs the cable. Fix is to make one out of delrin and replace. The old one is captive with a riveted head that needs to be ground off. Delrin replacement slips on and due to the angle of the post needed no additional restraint.

Second plastic failure is in the carrier that holds the cable to the glass. The cable has a crimped bead that clamps into this carrier and the plastic of the carrier breaks allowing the bead to slip through. The fix here is to reposition cable bead in the broken carrier and then mix up a load of JB Weld putty. Press the putty into the carrier traping the bead. Do this with the window/regulator in the horizontal position so there is no chance the bead will slip through the putty. A few hours later it will be hard enough to place back in the car. Do not use for 24 hours.

When the epoxy putty has set run the regulator both directions until it hits its stops (switch held up or down until the window stops). This calibrates the regulator and auto up/down will be restored. Also works after a battery disconnect to restore auto up/down.

If that fails THEN buy the new regulator.
 

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Such a pity !Sorry but I have never heard about it so I can’t help u here Maybe the best solution is to go the nearest car service?
 
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