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Discussion Starter #1
Hi guys. My first post is a bad one, unfortunatly for me.

Have a 94 90cs. Started having it fixed up. A local mechanic installed 2 front struts. The "stops" which provide piston shaft movement at it`s head or tower had no insulation rings around them, so they had considerable play because the strut couldn`t be tighteded down.
I drove the car like this as infrequently as i could. The struts where bouncing around when i`d hit road bumps of course.

With-in a week between the strut installs and receiving new "stops" from the dealer, a sequence of failures began.

-Once, on cold start, the car cranked but wouldn`t turn over and start. I left it for one day and the next morning it started normally.
-That same morning I took the drive, about 20 miles, to the dealership. On the way back I lost the steering power assist. I pulled over within minutes. Now multiple warning lights were on.
- The battery,engine,temp,and I guess steering if there is a light for that..I forget.
My temp gauge is broken, so I don`t know for sure if it was overheated...it didn`t seems so. I drove it home and it still didn`t seem to be overheated.
- As I entered my parking lot, the car stalled because the battery was just about dead and couldn`t crank after that.
- I also noticed after the stall, the radiator reservoir was below minimum level. I brought it to mid-level,but made no difference.
- I also noticed the steering fluid reservoir was very low. I need to add fluid, and see if the power assist comes back. (opps, can`t manage that, car won`t start yet.)

- Dead battery could likely be the alternator...loss of steering assist could very well be the fluid...The brake warning light could be from loss of ABS?
No clue about the temp warning light.

Has anyone a clue about all this, and how it seems to have happened all at once...and just after the strut installs?

One more question pls.
- say it`s the ECU, (control processor), is it possible that the metal strut shaft has a difference in voltage potential in respect to the chassis?
The strut was just bouncing about within the opening provided for it in the car chassis...and could this have shocked the processor?

Sorry I had to write all this to be clear the first time.
Thank you to everyone who takes the time to read this.

Barry.
 

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Well Barry...that's sounds pretty bad, but I'm going to give you(i hope) the one and only out that you might have...pull codes on the ECU. By pulling codes, you will be able to pin point exactly what is happening. And you will be able to find the problem/problems and fix them. Good Luck. I hope to didn't break the timing belt.
 

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Discussion Starter #3 (Edited)
Hello evo1couperacing .

Thanks for responding quickly!
Well...This morning,(sunday), I went out to have a look at the alternator. Low and behold...the drive belt was a twisted, mangled mess of thread at radiator bottom!
Ha..when I saw that, I think I was reborn, shedding the heavy weight of overwhelming doom and gloom.

I guess a broken belt slipped your mind evo1couperacing. Maybe since I did notice the steering fluid and radiator res levels, you assumed i`d noticed the belt as well...and I should have.

I`ll have AAA toe me to a nearby sunoco service station to replace the belt and also drop those strut stops in.
This sunoco is one of two service stations i`ll be using as I pull the car back together. So I had this brainstorm...i`m rather paranoid about any work done to my car, and just can`t stop thinking that somehow i`ll get ripped or use cheap parts and maybe steal one of mine...or maybe shotty labor..ya`know.
So having 2 shops working on different projects, one after the other...each can oversee the work the other has done. Haha..is this fail-safe or am I delusional? hehe.

PS: I`ll be sure to draw the codes also. I believe with a new drive belt, this will automatically call for a tune-up with plugs and cables and such. I need them just the same.

Thanks again evo1couperacing. I`ll be making improvements to my 90cs over the near future, so I expect you`ll see me again. ;^ )
 

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Well, not to throw a wrench in things.... You may have more problems then you know. The drive belt also drives the hydraulic pump for the power steering and other hydraulics.

Correct me if I'm wrong but that belt also drives the water pump, no? If you drove home without it, you might have blown a head gasket, or worse yet, warped / cracked the head.

Double check that the belt only drives the alternator and not the water pump.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hello dnachristen.
All wrenches welcome.
The car is at the shop now and expect to get "the call" today.(tues)
From the pix i`ve found, it does seem that this belt involves the alt as well as the water pump.

When the car failed,(belt broke), I wasn`t all that far from home. I turned the interior heat full blast as well.(I expect this helped pull heat from the engine..but I can`t be certain about anything for sure, concerning an audi.

I didn`t hear the typical creeking you`d hear from an overheated engine...so maybe i`m lucky, and haven`t warped anything. Fingers crossed.

Let you hear all the boring details when I have them. :& |

Thanks for the heads up on that dnachristen.
 

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No problem... Fingers crossed for ya.

These engines are pretty much bullet proof.

Running the heater probably didn't do any good since the water wasn't circulating. You would blow a hose before the engine overheated to the point of failure. But having the expansion tank almost empty has me concerned.

Good luck to you!
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Hey,goodevening.

I had the A90 belt replaced.
Here`s how the bill broke down;
- serpentine belt = $66.85
- idler pulley assembly = $128.98
- labor = 1.5hrs = $90.00
- tax = $22.87
Total = $308.70

He said the belt broke because of a bad idler pulley. What me know? It`s the most expensive part and no way to know anything but what he tells me. Me thinks...was it really in need of replacement?...hence, why I got interested in joining this forum, and in time...servicing my audi myself.

Bye bye.
 

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Wow...I think $308 bux is pretty good considering what was going on with it. Yeah your mechanic was prolly just being safe in replacing the idler pulley assembly. Because it was bad and broke the belt your lucky there was not any other internal damage from that happening....so how is it running now???
 
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