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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I.8 T Oil Pressure Light and the cause


P1010088.jpg :eek: :) oill3.JPG View attachment 4951 Hello all you 1.8t oil warning light people.Today i took some photos of the oil pump strainer blockage,as you can see the new strainer is clear and the old one has the sludge deposits that block the oil feed and create the pressure problems and the noise from start up.This A4 also needed the sump steam cleaning out and the breather pipes de coking and i fitted the modified oil filter and jobs a good un.
Technical solution

1.8 l turbo in-.ine - sludging


Problem description
A4, A4 Cabriolet, A6 1.8 l Turbo: oil pressure warning light on, black sludging in the oil sump and in front of the oil intake strainer.​

Cause
Exceeded maintenance intervals, the use of engine oils which do not meet the VW standard and pronounced low load operation.​

Production solution
Bigger oil filter since November 2001.​


Service solution
Check whether the engine has mechanical damage, for example through significant rattling noises. In this case repair accordingly.
If there are no signs of mechanical damage, only replace the oil intake strainer . A replacement of the complete oil pump is not necessary. An ****ysis of oil pumps has shown that sludging does not affect the oil pump operation.​

Fit a bigger oil filter to increase the oil quantity (see ETKA) at the oil change service.​







Problem description
A4, A4 Cabriolet, A6 1.8 l Turbo: oil pressure warning light on, black sludging in the oil sump and in front of the oil intake strainer.​

Cause
Exceeded maintenance intervals, the use of engine oils which do not meet the VW standard and pronounced low load operation.​

Production solution
Technical solution

1.8 T oil warning light on / engine rattles


Problem description
Oil pressure warning light sporadically on, engine rattles​

Cause
Engine oil pressure sporadically too low.​

Production solution

Service solution
Check the oil pressure and compare it with the required values in the workshop manual. If there is pressure at idle speed, but it collapses at higher revs, remove the oil sump and check it for coking residues. If oil mesh and snorkel are coked-up, clean or replace them. Also take off and clean the valve cover.
After these measures change the oil. Repeat the oil change after 1000 km at the latest.​


Bigger oil filter since November 2001.​





 
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Discussion Starter #2 (Edited)
:cool: Sorry if the first photo wasn't clear so hopefully you can see this one.The mileage on this A4 was below 40,000 and the lucky bugger was in his last week of warranty,so he is a happy man.I also regased his air con as part of the repair as the pipe runs across the bottom of the sump and needs to be moved out the way but doesn't really need to come off to remove the sump,but a free regas is always a winner.Who says main dealers don't care
 

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Great info A8 tech !!

Im sure this will come on very handy to anyone that is experiencing 1.8 T oil pressure problems ...

Keep up the good work your technical advice here on the forum is much appreciated :)

Cheers T-sport
 

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a8 tech said:

:eek: :) View attachment 4952 View attachment 4951 Hello all you 1.8t oil warning light people.Today i took some photos of the oil pump strainer blockage,as you can see the new strainer is clear and the old one has the sludge deposits that block the oil feed and create the pressure problems and the noise from start up.This A4 also needed the sump steam cleaning out and the breather pipes de coking and i fitted the modified oil filter and jobs a good un.
Great info, and I've seen a lot of your replies to people giving helpful advise on this subjet aswell. I had this job done on my 02 A4 1.8T today, but now I wondering,

- Does this effect all these type 1.8T engines and just certain years of manufacture ? VW, Seat, Skoda and Audi ?
- Whats the main cause of this sludging ? I had changed the oil in my car with a duckhams synthic oil (which a seat garage told me they use for their 1.8T toledo's) was this wrong ?
- and basically how to avoid this in the future ? I'd like to upgrade my 02 car to a newer model soon but also a 1.8T, so wondering if there is anyway to know (apart from a noise on starup, if this issue could be developing)

thanks...
 

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Discussion Starter #5 (Edited)
There are a lot of 1.8 T on the road in all v.a.g vehicles and only a small % fail and it doesn't seem to mater what oil they were using.Fuel grade may be the answer as the Americans have a lot of issues with sludging and they tried legal action against V.A.G.
You can check the oil pressure in dash insert via vag com in measured value 1 or 3 i cant recall but i will have a look.
If the red warning can comes on then stop the engine and recover to workshop.I clean mine out every year and there is always a bit of munk in there so i don't have the answer but i do have the repair and advise of the worst case of damage it can cause.
As i said don't let it put you off as 1.8 T is a good engine and very strong,i service my mates and he has never had the issue and that's on 190,000 miles so what is that telling us.Great question syboit hope i make some sense and hope some one gives me the source of the issue
 

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Hi, thanks for the extra info. A friend of mine has VAG-com software on his laptop (and has one of those cables) if you know someway of checking the oil pressure in there that would be great, it would be a nice way to keep an eye on this issue.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
17 dash 08 measured value bock 1 or 3.You will find oil pressure there
 

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thanx 4 the advise a8 tech!

i was just wondering is the sump the only way ov getting to that oil strainer?
if so how do i go about getting to it? is it a big job?
 

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Discussion Starter #9 (Edited)
Hello Parmy,the only way is to remove the sump and this would mean lowering the sub frame to allow access to the bolts and to remove the sump.

It takes about 3 hours and you will need to replace the sub frame bolts as they are stretch bolts also its advisable to check the wheel alignment after as moving the sub frame can knock the camber out.

If you have got the time and its your first attempt allow 1 day and also consider removing the rocker cover and cleaning out all the crap in there also and check the breather pipes and give them a good old clean.

When you have reassembled change the oil again after 1000 miles to remove any left over sludge and jobs a goon un.

If you do it yourself you will know its been cleaned out as some workshops may shy away from cleaning the system fully and also see if there are any good oil flushes available to you.

Good luck and get those overalls on
 

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thanx mate!! ur a star! do u think i should get it done from a garage as im not realy that experienced in that department! if so how much can i expect to pay?
 

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Discussion Starter #11 (Edited)
well to do the oil pump strainer only its 3 hours so if you use vag indi workshop that would be around £50 an hour the rocker cover would be half an hour and say another hour ish for cleaning the rocker cover and the breather pipe.

The rocker gasket part number is 058198025A the sump gasket should be a wet type no D174003A2 but could be the earlier type with a gasket (sorry don't have that number) and the modified oil filter should be supplied as standard from Audi as it superseded the thinner type.

So if you get your own parts and oil then say allow 5 hours its a lot cheaper than a new engine and turbo.Bugger i forgot to say that you don't have to replace the strainer as you can just clean it out and replace the green o ring between the strainer and the pump.Bugger again and don't forget to buy the sub frame bolts .
 

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hello a8 tech!

iv dun my car and it runs sweet thanx 4 the good advice! but now i hav another problem the engine management lites come up and my mate put it on the computar and this is whats come up,- 17772 cyl 4 ignition activation intermitant and 16396 bank 1 camshaft adjustment present value of resistance too small. right the first code might be cuz i changed the coil pack on cyl 4 but it wasnt from the main dealer could that hav a effect on it? the car isnt misfireing as far as i know!! the second code i havnt got a clue could that be the sensor? what do u think? my mates tryed clearing the codes but the engine management light keeps cuming back!! i love this car to bits but at the moment its one problem after another! iv only had it 2 months! im realy cosidering selling it and going to audi and buying a brand new one!
 

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Discussion Starter #14 (Edited)
goto engine electrics and enter into basic settings channel 94 now raise the engine speed to 2000rpm and hold it there,look at zone three and it should go from test on to test off and then sytem ok(this may not be supported on your engine code so you may have to give me your engine number and year)If it comes up ok erase the fault memory and test.Here is some more info on your code 16396/P0012/000018 - Bank 1: Camshaft A (Intake): Advance Setpoint not Reached (Over-Retarded)

Possible Symptoms
  • Erratic Idle
Possible Causes
  • Intake Camshaft Adjuster tight/stuck
  • Intake Camshaft Adjuster faulty
Possible Solutions
  • Check Intake Camshaft Adjuster
    • Use Output Test, Meas. Value Blocks (MV & Basic SettingBecause the chain tensioner is oil feed,draining the oil and lossing the pressure can cause this so hopefully a reset should resolve it or try carring out output test via vagcom and this should alter the tensioner from lowest position to higest.
Retrieved from "http://wiki.ross-tech.com/index.php/16396/P0012/000018"
 

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Discussion Starter #17
17772 means coil pack number 4 opencircuit.That could be because you disconnected the coil pack or the coil pack is defective providing you have 12 volt feed.If that fault code clears then ignore it as i would have expected a misfire in that cylinder
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hey thanks for the comments in the reputation thingy,its great to have some feed back from members when my advise has helped out.Best Regards A8
 

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So - can I drive an A4 with oil pressure problems at all?

If I have an oil pressure guage that is going on sporatically (moslty when I take a sharp left turn) can I drive the car to the dealer to fix the sludge problem - or do I get the car towed?

I'm not a mechanic so I don't really understand all your recommendations.
 
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