Hum??? i dont know about that. I have a Turbo XS BOV, no negitave results for me. The turbo spools up sooner, low end power increased, and sounds kinda cool. Plus, you cant gripe about extending the life of your turbo. :57:
The Audi turbo system is a closed loop system by which all unused boost that is spooled during off throttle and gear shifts must be re-routed within the system; it cannot be vented to the atmosphere due to the dependence on the MAF and ECU to properly read and interpret air flow dynamics within the intake tract. Therefore BOV's (Blow-Off Valves) are not used because they create a rich air/fuel condition (i.e. less air to fuel ratio) which will damage the catalytic converter, create soot on the exhaust pipes, and cause occasional misfiring (due to the purged air) which will result in ECU miscalculated timing adjustments and other errors.
For Audi closed loop turbo systems, a BPV (By-Pass Valve) or DV (Diverter Valve) is needed to recirculate the purged air and keep it within the intake tract.
interesting.... well im going to run with my bov for awhile longer and see what i see. i looked into the bov thing alot before i got mine and this is the first i have heard of this. Im not saying its not true, not at all. just never heard it before. well.... im glad i kept the stock DV just incase.
no chip here. the only performancemod....if you even want to call it that, is the BOV. I havent done anything else to it... not sure if i will. I would like to, but i just started getting into spinning (DJing trance, breaks, house) and its a costly, abd addictive hobby. so my time and money are focused there.
Well, factory tuned(stock ECU) froced induction cars almost always come set up to run pig **** rich(like insureance for the manuf.)!! I would put money on the fact that your stock fuel system has some room left for a few P.S.I. increase YES it will lean you out some more but it is possible to still stay safe. I would either get up with the guys at APR on how many PSI increase is safe on a stock TT and what a safe AFR(air fuel ratio). OR, if you are gunna really start to let that little TT be all it can be once ya figure out what your ideal AFR is (I can only speak for my turbo neon srt-4, witch has bout'a 12.2 AFR now witch is still safe but for example my car stock has a rich as hell AFR of like 9.0 or 10.0) you should really invest in a Wideband O2 setup they are like$250-400 and worth it cause you can monitor your AFR all the time and set up your boost controller to a safe PSI without worrying bout blowing your **** up! Wideband is the way to go really cause climet changes in temp. can effect AFR also, say its like 80* out and your AFR is a safe hypeathetacal 12.0 drive the same car on a 30* degree day and guess what? Yup, youll be running leaner by 1to 2 points that can be BAD so be careful,do some more research, and again be careful.
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