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Discussion Starter #1
My car is a 2001 A4 1.8T,
A problem suddenly happened the other day. all door locks seems not working any more... I press the lock button on master key, the red LEDs by the front door windows flash, a horn will confirm all door are locked, but actually none of them can lock. and a strange little motor sound came from the trunk by the fuel tank cap. confused... Please help.
 

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The motor noise is a vacuum pump that sucks the door locks closed. These can fail, which could be your problem. Although I guess if it was broken it might make no noise...
 

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my 98 a4 does the same thing i had recently had some body work done on the rear passenger quater panel and the locks never worked after that. it makes the noise and everything(only locks my door but beeps to let me no its locked.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Yes, I can lock the driver's door with the key in the lock, and turn, but it can only lock the driver's door, none of the other doors will lock... have to push down all the door knobs before close them.
Please help,,, have to get a de-icer to open my car door in a cold morning.
 

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Sound like you’re pump is gone or a pipe has split.

You need to remove the trim inside to your right (petrol side) and have a look but that where the control unit which controls the pump for the lock and the immobiliser lives. This is where you problem is.

Just make sure that the boot dose not lock nor dose the petrol flap as I think they run off another loop of the same pump and if they work or nor of them work it may be just a bad pipe or even just a pipe come off.
 

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Discussion Starter #8
docurley said:
Sound like you’re pump is gone or a pipe has split.

You need to remove the trim inside to your right (petrol side) and have a look but that where the control unit which controls the pump for the lock and the immobiliser lives. This is where you problem is.

Just make sure that the boot dose not lock nor dose the petrol flap as I think they run off another loop of the same pump and if they work or nor of them work it may be just a bad pipe or even just a pipe come off.
Thanks for the tip, I'll try. hopefully that's the problem...
 

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Discussion Starter #10
sirmeepsalot said:
my gas cap lock works with the keyless but not the trunk.
None of my locks work with the keyless, man,, I have to pull the trim and open the gas cap manually... :-(.
It's been raining badly these days in Vancouver, have to wait and try to find that pump or motor..
 

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Sirmeepsalot, Yours may be that you have deadlocked the boot with the key which would override the remote or the lock is Fcuked or the air line is leaking.

Peon, Your pump is just under where you open the fuel cap black box with a grey cover, sounds like your pump has gone and you will need a new one.
 

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Discussion Starter #12
hey, docurley, the problem is that I cant' see where the pump is,,, it's blocked by some metal things,,, when I pull that fuel gap lock pin, my finger almost got stucked in there,, it's so hard to reach,, how can I make an opening for myself to change the pump? do I have to take off the whole right rear trimming in the trunk? thanks...
 

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The pump is way down in the well just below the lights and should be easy to get to forget the fuel flap as that s much higher up.
 

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I had the same exact problem, the locks are vacuum operated and it failed. It costed me about $650 USD for the dealership to fix it.
 

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Hi all
I posted this as a reply on another forum thread but I've been so pleased with myself I figured it may be useful to some of you and save you some money.
My 98 1.8 A4's central locking packed up and with 2 kids it became a right pain. On pulling it apart I found the graphite disc inside had disintegrated, which you can't get individually.
Balking at the prices to replace the whole pump I looked on ebay and was shocked at how much they went for on there too.
I went out on a limb and bought an Audi 80 CLP
(part number 4A0 862 257 E) for £9 and with p+p it came to £15, I figured they'd be the same size etc and the motor would be the same.
On arrival it was about half the size I expected and thought I'd have to shell out for a new CLP.
But, and this is the best bit, I pulled it apart anyway and the motor is nigh on identical. The graphite bits, as per the link below are much thicker than the original ones!!! Designed to fail do you think?
I then followed the advice on this web page:
http://www.audiworld.com/tech/elec149.shtml
I'm assuming it is allowed to post it as it will be a help! Mods?

The only thing that I did different to what he did was to use the clear plastic pipe inside the audi 80 pump as the connector (pic 4) and to use my pumps insert into the vacuum unit?! ( I guess thats what it is) as it was a better fit.

I then refitted it and tried it. Initially it unlocked but armed the alarm so I knew I'd soldered the wires on back to front

I hastily changed the wires over and it was sorted, fantastic


I reckon I saved myself between £100 and £300. What do you reckon
 

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central locking control box

i have changed my central locking box but it still wont work, someone tells me that i need to have it programmed with my key, is this true and if so where do i get it done from apart from the stealerships?
 

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You could swap the circuit boards over, your old one into your new CLP. You can solder or crimp the wires.
This would negate the need to code the CLP as your original circuit board is already coded to your car. Failing that IIRC you will need VAG COM to recode it.
 

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For everyone with a B5 A4 (also applies to A3 & A6) there are two main variants of the central locking pump.

The older single vacuum/pressure outlet 4AO pumps, and the later twin outlet 8LO pumps.

The suffix letter on the end of the part number indicates pump revision and car model.

Most 8LO pumps are interchangeable.

On 8LO pumps, all suffixes above 'A' have Radio Frequency 'remote central locking' incorporated. (Late 97+).

If you change to a pump with a different suffix (8LO862257'A' to 8LO862257'E' etc), or from a non-RF pump to an RF pump, you will generally have to use VAG-COM to recode the number in module 35 'central locking' (46 central convenience for later cars) to enable the central locking/alarm to function correctly. The correct code to enter depends on your car model, radio, and desired locking features.

Chose the basecode that describes your car, then add or subract the numbers for the 'Optional locking features' that you require, then enter the final number into your central locking module with VAG-COM.

A4 B5 Central locking Codes can be found on the Rosstech website (scroll down to Module 35)
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/audiB5.html#35

A4 B6
http://www.ross-tech.com/vag-com/cars/audiB6.html#46

A3 pre-97
http://www.robvanguard.co.uk/a3/CODING97.pdf

A3 1998-2000
http://www.robvanguard.co.uk/a3/CODING98.pdf

A3 2000+
http://www.robvanguard.co.uk/a3/CODING00.pdf

Pre 97 A4's normally have a separate 'central locking' control unit under the rear seat bench, compatible with the early RF or earlier type IR remote locking fob's (will have small domed IR pickups on the 'B' column's).

If your pump is running for longer than 6 seconds, you have a vacuum/pressure leak in one of the tubes or tube junctions, normally the front doors, fuel flap or junctions behind the front seats. You can sometimes locate the leak by listening for a hissing noise inside the car.
If a leak is not fixed promptly, and the pump continues to work overtime, the graphite impeller will eventually shatter and a replacement pump will be required.

Another common problem with the pump is its location. The pump and its foam protective cover tend to become waterlogged after heavy rain, which can cause unexpected problems like windows opening or closing for no reason, and boot or doors not working with the remote.
This can generally be remedied by drying out the pump

All Audi A4's from late 97 onward were factory fitted for 'Remote Central Locking'. If 'remote central locking' was an optional extra and was not purchased with the car, Audi simply gave people non-remote keys and coded the central locking accordingly.

A4's from 97 to early 98 generally require a two button flip key, as boot locking is pneumatically controled, and unlocks with the rest of the car doors.

Later A4's had a three button flip key, with an electronically controled boot lock.

Uk/European remotes operate on a different frequency to USA remotes.

If you intend to buy a European flip key on ebay for your B5 A4, generally stick to the 2 or 3 button '4DO837231' or '8LO837231 A' part number keys that will be compatable with your car.(A3 keys are 8LO, 8PO etc)

Some 3 button remotes will work on various different models, but there is no definitive list.

The remotes contain two separate components:

1. The 'Remote Central Locking' part, which has to be sync'ed to the car to enable the RF remote locking. You can sync the remote either using the two key method, which differs for pre and post 97 cars, or use VAG-COM to enter the key manually.

2. The 'Immobiliser' part, which takes the form of a small glass capsule containing a 'micro-circuit', which is present in all of the car keys, even the tiny plastic emergency type key.

The earlier immobiliser type had a 'static code' and the later type had a 'rolling code'.

If you do not have a remote key, and your B5 A4 is late 97 onwards, you can purchase the correct 2 or 3 button flip key (ebay etc) and swap the transponder capsule from one of your old type 'main' keys. This will allow the immobiliser to be disabled when you start the car. If you do not have a spare immobiliser capsule to transfer, you will have to take your keys to Audi for a transponder swap/recode.

This is all information that i found usefull when i retrofitted original 'Keyless Entry' to my 97 A4 TDI SE, and is probably oversimplified in parts.
 

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If non of the locks work with the remote, its very likely the impeller is in bits in the vacuum pump/convenience control in the boot/back, if you disconnect the wiring and the vacuum hoses (gently) and give it a shake if it rattles like a toy... its broke, get on ebay a new motor is £50 and 10 mins to fit which is better than £350 from audi,
 
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