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Discussion Starter #1
I have owned my 89 2.3i 20v Coupe since Christmas with some fun times but more bad times.

Just had it basically tuned to run and idle better, the sills need doing, but otherwise the body is in pristine condition, the problem is the engine.

I opened my bonnet today to investigate a tappet noise only to find my dipstick ejected and the engine bay covered in 10w 40.

It used to do this until I renewed the dipstick and changed the rubber seal on the oil cap, and it sealed well. I've just had it back from a friend's garage for MOT and this dipstick problem has re-emerged.

I don't want expensive bad news. I love the car but it's getting on my t**s now! :mad:

Thank you

P.S. Also just found a crack in the main radiator around the bleed screw. Can I glue or solder this closed?
 

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Hello,

sounds like the crankcase breather is blocked so the crankcase is building pressure which is released by blowing the dipstick out. There should be a rubber pipe coming from the crankcase and routing to the air cleaner or inlet pipework somewhere, try removing this and making sure that it is not blocked with combustion gunge.

As for the radiator, depending upon where the split is and how clean you can get the surface you might be able to fix it with something like Araldite with a cloth reinforcement (bit of an old thin cotton shirt).

Good luck, you have my deepest sympathy. I know the feeling of having a car that appears to be toying with you, I hit one with a spade once. It didn't make it go but I felt much better (temporarily).

Let me just say that I don't advocate the spade treatment as a repair technique.

Keith853
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thank you for your reply.

Regarding the breather hose, that was the trouble in the first place. I found that the original had worn thin and lost all strucural integrity. It was also feeling pressure from the power steering hose holder. I replaced this not long ago with a Samco elbow and a combination of stainless steel tubing. I was happy with the result until now apparently.

Do you have any idea of a substance I can add to the engine that would eliminate these deposits? I shall obviously have to remove and clean it for now.

I also located the problem with my radiator (had a busy sunday as you can tell!). The bleed screw is a banjo bolt with a hole on one side that was pushing coolant out into the casing's rubber skin which then cracked around the bleed hole releasing all my lovely coolant! I don't know whether this is my fault for not tightening the bolt up properly, or is it in fact the right bleed screw? So I'm going to work with some PTFE, and checking where I can tighten it to.

I have also noticed oil seeping from the oil cap AGAIN! This is probably co-incidental to the blocked breather hose. So I'm off to find some O rings, to re-inforce the rubber washer, which will hopefully seal my oil in properly.

Thank you again.

P.S. I had an old landrover once that kept losing water, no matter what. I hit it with a tractor.
 

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Hi I had a 1990 Audi 200 2.2 5Cyl (Locally called 500 SE) also had the problem with the leaky oil cap, that was a common problem because of the gradient of the engine, lying 30 deg to the left, the tappets throw up the oil against the oil cap, then the seal starts to leak. You CAN fix it just get a tappet coverinside (It comes over the tappets to stop oil throw up against the oil cap) that was too much trouble for me so I just opened the bonnet every day and take a cloth and remove the oil.
also works good
I also had alot of problems I had the gearbox , automatic fixed 3 times. the power steering 9 TIMES!!!!!!!! the place I took the car to did a sh###y job .that's why. my radiator also leaked, just got fedup and bought a new one problem solved(saved money for a long while), after that the pipes behind the gearbox that kept it cool disentergrated, almost lost my gearbox for a fourth time, I also had to replace my expantion tank!!! And 2 fuel pumps ,CV joints ,electric window switches. handles to open the car, heater core, gas struts for bonnet,replace material that covered the inside of the roof, Numerous electric problems!! I believe I had my share of troubles, I now own a 2.8 A6 Touch wood I did not have too many troubles.

The best of luck I know what it feels like. My car is going for a service tomorrow. It is going to cost me almost $1000 but I pay it with a smile. My car will just be going longer without troubles
Corne
 

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Discussion Starter #5
A tappet cover eh?

Where do I get my hands on one of those then? If it's the solution. I think it may be more than just the tappets throwing oil at the cap because when I push the car a bit it gets worse. Do the tappets generate that much force?

Mind you the gradient theory does hold water because the oil only comes out from the lower side of the cap.

It has got better recently though as I've reinforcd the oil seal with a polyurathane washer, but the rubber is rather hard and un-sealing.

I've tried finding a replacement rubber washer to fit the oil cap with no successs so far. I would be absolutley over the moon if it merely my over exubberant tappets!

Thanks
 

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If you start your car open the oil cap and see how much oil is thrown against the oil cap. You can get the inner tappet cover from an old VW passat, it would do the trick
 
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