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Discussion Starter #1
Hi, I have an 1990 Audi 80 with a stalling problem.

When idling it revs by itself ('hunts') as if the throttle is being blipped over and over.

The car continuously stalls when at low speed (eg. trundling along in a traffic queue or reversing) unless the revs are kept very high (very!). The car is more or less normal when on the open road and goes up and down the gears fine, until you come down to 10mph or so. Any suggestions as to the cause?
 

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Discussion Starter #5
Hi, thank you very much for replying to my post. I've been working away from home for the past few weeks without regular internet and my car was garaged so I haven't been able to look at it yet.

However, I did a blunder in my post when asking for advice. My Audi 80 is a 1988 model, not a 1990 (for some reason I thought that the UK E-reg year was 1990, not 1988! Duh!) So my problem is the same, it idles dreadfully, always hunting, and is always stalling at low speed, but the car in question is an Audi 80 1988 carbs model.

For most idling problems on fuel injection Audis of this era the ISV does seem to be the main culprit as evo1 sagely advised, but what about an older carburetor model? This problem is really ruining an otherwise fine car.
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Thanks, Evo1... when you refer to pull codes, do you mean putting a fuse on top of the fuel relay and looking at the sequence of lights on the 'check engine light'? (I've seen it described for a quattro after a bit of googling.)

If so, how can I find out what the blinking light sequence means, would it be in a haynes manual? Do you think it would be the same as a quattro of the same year (as in the page I read?) Where is the 'check engine light' located?

I don't even know if it can be done on a car without fuel injection like mine, would it have the necessary computer/console unit to store fault info?

Any advice is very much appreciated.

I'm afraid there are no Audi dealers within 150 miles of me, and tentatively talking by phone, they were absolutely clueless about older Audis. I think the mechanic I spoke to was younger than my car!
 

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LMAO!!!:lol::lol: That's to funny about the mechanics age and your car. Ok lets start off first by asking you is it a North American Audi 80? Or is it european? 5cyl or 4cyl? I believe it should have the necessary fault storing computer on it but don't quote me on that. If it does look under the drivers footwell you should see 2 empty plugs. One is black and one is white. That is where you plug in you vag computer to read out the codes. I don't know if it is the same set up as the 20v 7a engine in my 1990 Coupe but you might want to try this website to get what the codes mean...if it's the same.
20v.org Good luck I hope I helped in some way!
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hi, I changed ISPs and been moving around so haven't been online much so please excuse this long delay in writing in this thread.

Well, in case evo1 and anyone else is interested I managed to solve the problem. I was looking forlornly at the Audi (4 cylinder, UK) and sadly couldn't find a computer connector. I decided to look at the main fuse box, and although I couldn't find any signs of corrosion I changed one (marked no.12) which had the most things connected to it judging by the list on the side. When I idled the car it seemed to be a bit better as it was idling more steadily, although still hunting a bit.

I took it for a run. The car seemed better, not stalling as much and going through the gears smoother. I went looking for open road. Then there was a loud bang! The middle pipe connecting to the silencer had gone. The exhaust had been blowing a bit but now had gone pop! I had only gone 500m down the road. The audi roared like a tank as I limped home keeping the revs down.

I got the pipe fixed. I took it for a run. The car drove great. I was speechless. The problem has gone! Well, fingers crossed anyway. I don't know - was it the fuse? Was it the hole in the exhaust's centre pipe? Both?

For the moment the car is driving very well, and everything seems to be normal. It'll be needing an MOT test soon but hopefully it'll pass without too much hassle.
 

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Well that's good new durpin. I'm glad she is running great. Ya know it could have been the exhaust. Let me explain. If your Exhaust had a leak before the silencer that might have caused your hunting idle problem. The Silencer produces back pressure when the exhaust system is fully intact. Thus giving the O2 sensor positive readings on what gases are being measured and sending that reading to the ECU and controling how much or how little fuel to send out. If the exhaust was leaking I can almost bet that the O2 sensor was getting a mixed reading and sending the car into a "limp home" mode. That would cause the irratic idle changes. But I'm glad your car is running much better now. :)
 
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