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Well, the User Guide says, that if all segments in display are lighted at the same time, the CVT has a occassional malfunction, however, you can continue driving.

If all segments are displayed inverted, the CVT has a minor malfunction and it is recommendable to get your car to the service for a check.

If all segments start flashing, the CVT has a serious malfunction and it is strongly recommendable to get your car to the service immediately. However, the CVT has a such kind of intelligence that if it possible that the CVT are going to broke down, it will disconnect itself out of order.


So, I would suggest that you should get your car to the Audi Service as soon as possible to avoid for a further serious problems.

Br.
-JK
 

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Hi folks - just found this thread after posting a similar problem...
('02 A6 2.5 diesel with 96k on the clock.)
I'm getting occasional gentle juddering on very low throttle openings - if it was a manual, I'd say it felt like clutch slip.
No problem at all on full throttle acceleration or at high speed - only at low speed, low/mid throttle.
Been to garage and they plugged in their magic box, but it showed no faults so of course they have no idea what to try! (And they didn't seem to have come across it before.)

Sounds like the same as you are all talking about here. Anyone in the UK any suggestions for CVT specialists or am i stuck with Audi prices??

Thanks

Steve
 

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Hi. Sorry to dig up this old thread. I have a 2002 A4 1.8T CVT that is having the same issues. It's drivable above 2000RPM but its getting worse.

I'd like to replace the clutch as I think this will solve the issue, then I can trade the car for a manual.

What has everyone's experience been with doing this? I'm going to have someone with a lift help me pull the tranny, then I'll pop out the input shaft. Where can I get the 7-plate clutch to replace it with? Will the dealer sell it to me?

-Chris
 

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We found it impossible to get spare parts from Audi. The only option I had was a new gearbox which was VERY expensive.
On the other hand, it now goes great!
Steve
 

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Bottom line on CVT is avoid like the plague, it's imperfect technology. Despite claims to the contrary and being an excellent concept, it is beset with problems. My advice, next time go manual.

I'm not flippant, CVT is riddled with problems, auto technicians tell stories like these posts everyday.
 

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I'm having the same juddering problems.Two years ago Audi replaced my Automatic Transmission Contol Box. Is this the same as the gearbox? I called Audi service and they have not changed the oil in the box. They said it should be change at 60,000km or 5years. My car now has a 50,000 plus milage. Will an oil change resolve the problem?
 

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Multitronic problems at reverse

I see more folks out there have problems with multitronic. I have an A6 2.4 2003 now at 90.000km. From day one (11.000 km), most typical when car is medium to good warm, it does some times engaged reverse hard with two - three harsh jolts. Some times so hard it stalls the engine. I had a “mobility guaranty” replacement some days – guess what – it behaved exactly same way! Do they all??? :(
Same story as I hear from you – Audi says there is nothing wrong!!! Do they provide any guarantee on main parts like engine and gearbox after the 2 years? Oil was changed at 58.000, all services at Audi dealer.
 

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CVT fixed

I took the car to the Auto Prominence the former official Audi Dealer. They flushed the trans fluid and placed a new one. The juddering and jerking are totally eliminated.

The current official Audi Dealer, PGA, is totally unreliable, they said the fluid was still good and that a transmission assembly replacement at $90,000 is the recomended option. It took a week for them to figure this out.

It took only a day with thge former dealer. Auto Prominence tech showed me how dark the fluid is compared to the new one. I think PGA lied when they said they changed the fluid two years ago. The problem with PGA is that the customers are not allowed to see what they are doing with your car. So you dont' have any idea if they really are changing the fliuds,oil, or old parts with new. and then you get to pay for their services at a very high price.
 

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I have very similar issues like the one that you guys described here:

1) the car jumps and jerk when accelerating (in particular after stopping at roadlight or if the road is uphill)

2) the RPM gauge goes up and down, like if is trying to get the right RPM to switch gear

3) the central console flash and the car loose totally traction (had to turn off the car and then on again, and the flashing thing was gone)

I have a 02 A6 3.0 that barely passed 75K miles; and here in US is kinda rare to find a manual car, so i was hoping that Audi is able to put a decent transmission on a 60K bucks car, but seems that i am not alone in this messy situation.

At the moment the options are

1) dealer shop suggested to replace the transmission (8-9K )

2) try to change transmission fluid, tehn clutch with one with 7 wheels and then, extreme case, get an aftermarket transmission or a rebuilt one

3) pray

Honestly i would love to get out of this mess with a couple of thousands of dollars, so i can happily give away this car and try better luck with another one; or get another brand :(

This is my first Audi, and from the price of a car of this level i would expect much much more...and a good lesson is to buy extended warranty for the entire drivetrain...just to avoid issues :)

If any of you guys has the exact source of the problem, maybe i can point this thread to my mechanic, hoping that the thing can be resolved in a painless way (for my poor wallet lol)

Thanks !!!!
 

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Bought my Certified Pre-owned 2003 Audi A6 less than 2 months ago. Put less than 1000 miles on it (it had 37k when I bought it) and experienced this studdering problem. They are telling me transmission problems but that the engine is supsect too! What the heck is Audi doing about this? Please email me if you are experiencing this problem. I already have an attorney because someone needs to be held responsible.

ju****[email protected]
First cvt went at 78,000 miles-I did not experience shudder however when I drove the car through a parking lot you could hear this slight knocking noise echoing off the parked cars. Dealer could never tell me a straight anwser except the trans needed replacment. So since the after market warranty company would only cov. er a refurb cvt-thats what I got. 7,000 in US currency and a refurb was put in-now I have 105,000 miles and getting the slight judder when I take off from a stop- does not do it from a roll and only at lower speeds. I'm thinking of having the fluid flushed however I can't imagine that will fix the issue since not many miles on the rebuilt- I wish I new if the refurb tranny had the new 7plate or not. I use to have a 400hp to wheels Eagle Talon FWD that cost me total 9,000 and never had any issues I could not fix my self cheaply so pissed I sold that car. I WISH ALL OF US WITH CVT ISSUES COULD GET TOGETHER AND SUE THE PANTS OF AUDI-THEY SHOULD BE STEPPING UP TO THE PLATE AND TAKING CARE OF THERE DESIGN FLAWS.
 

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multitronic shudder

I have the same shudder problem with my 2.5 TDI 2002. It shudders when "shifting" at lower RPM's like 1200-1400. Same happends in drive or tiptronic mode, although this is much less in tiptronic because it usually shifts at higher RPM's. However, I have no more warranty on this car, so I am wonderring what is best to do. I will appreciate all advises.

And yes, VAG diagnostic computers reports error 18149 - Clutch pressure adaptation at limit.

1. Shell I try just to replace this 5-plates clutch with 7-plates clutch? Is there some gearbox computer software upgrade needed also? I am not sure I can do this kind of service in my country (Serbia), though. Official dealer told me about some official company repairing just automatic gearboxes, but these guys told me they don't repair multitronic, just tiptronic. Does anyone know some service in Hungary or Bulgaria able to do this? Otherwise, I supose the closest good service is in Austria. Can someone tell me if this completely removes the problem and what is approximate price for the repairment?

2. Or shell I just buy a new multitronic gearbox which costs 6500 euros here in Serbia. This is official dealers price and I have to return to them my old gearbox. Is it possible to get this cheaper in some other surrounding country (Hungary, Bulgaria, Romania, Austria)?

3. Another solution is to buy another used multitronic gearbox, approx. 1800 euros, but then how I know how long it will last? And I even don't know if it already has seven plates clutch or is it old version with five plates clutch.

4. Or to switch to manual gearbox and finish with the problems? I can buy used manual gearbox for approx. 800 euros. Total cost of manual gearbox and all other parts (pedals, handle, ...) including changing in service would be approx. 1500 euros.

5. Finally, is it possible to put some other kind of automatic gearbox (tiptronic) into this car?

Please help, I am desperate with this problem.
Go in an inclination road, place the D position and stay in brake and gas pedal relased. If the vehicle go in oposite direction the ECU understand the direction and tune the signal to solenoids for stay fixed in the position. So you can autocorrect the transmission. Repeat this procedure and I think that you can see the difference, if no your transmission need inside intervent. Also adding about 700-800 gr of oil overfilling. This transmission is more sensible for the oil quantity. Ciao
 

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Go in an inclination road, place the D position and stay in brake and gas pedal relased. If the vehicle go in oposite direction the ECU understand the direction and tune the signal to solenoids for stay fixed in the position. So you can autocorrect the transmission. Repeat this procedure and I think that you can see the difference, if no your transmission need inside intervent. Also adding about 700-800 gr of oil overfilling. This transmission is more sensible for the oil quantity. Ciao


I would like to clarify this procedure. Example the car is uphill (inclined road). Breaks should be released and not applied? Gas pedal should should also be released. If it is uphill, car should try to lock in place by moving forward? If downhill car should move in reverse to try to lock in place? How steep should the inclined road be?
 

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I would like to clarify this procedure. Example the car is uphill (inclined road). Breaks should be released and not applied? Gas pedal should should also be released. If it is uphill, car should try to lock in place by moving forward? If downhill car should move in reverse to try to lock in place? How steep should the inclined road be?
the road must be 30°-40° inclined. so, in this condition, go in D position and release both the pedals of gas and brake:the ECU will understand that the car is going to move backward an will try to avoid this movement intervening on the transmission. This procedure will automatically correct the transmission. Is also important that the oil is in level or a bit plus. Make a control of the level and add also others 700-800 gr.
 

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I just recently bought an A4 B6 2.0 with CVT from a used car dealer, which still has 3 month warranty.
The dealer brought this car, just before I bought it to a transmission place, which repaired the CVT by replacing the Transmission Control Module. The rest of the gear box was checked out and no other problems were apparent.

But some times when I drive off slowly from the traffic lights, especially if there are a few passengers in the car, the car would shutter. It doesn't do this persistently, and a friend thinks this is normal for a CVT to do sometimes due to the design.

The question is, is this really normal?

Thanks
 

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I just recently bought an A4 B6 2.0 with CVT from a used car dealer, which still has 3 month warranty.
The dealer brought this car, just before I bought it to a transmission place, which repaired the CVT by replacing the Transmission Control Module. The rest of the gear box was checked out and no other problems were apparent.

But some times when I drive off slowly from the traffic lights, especially if there are a few passengers in the car, the car would shutter. It doesn't do this persistently, and a friend thinks this is normal for a CVT to do sometimes due to the design.

The question is, is this really normal?

Thanks
Hello awulf!
This transmission has problem with TCU, but the shudder during the deceleration is not normal for a CVT-Multitronic.
The possible cause:
1.The battery drop voltage - change the battery
2.The mechanicall mismatch - belt roller pin consumation or variator pulley surface
 

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Hello awulf!
This transmission has problem with TCU, but the shudder during the deceleration is not normal for a CVT-Multitronic.
The possible cause:
1.The battery drop voltage - change the battery
2.The mechanicall mismatch - belt roller pin consumation or variator pulley surface
Thanks for the info. The shuddering occasionally happens during slow acceleration not deceleration, which I'm guessing isn't normal also? I'll contact the dealer to fix the problem.
 

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Multitronic gearbox control unit faulty?

My Audi dealer has informed me that the gearbox control unit needs to be replaced on my Audi A4 2002 3.0 Multitronic. It has done 102000 kms. The gearbox was replaced 18 months ago under the maintenance plan.

The symptoms have been as follows:

The gearbox automatically disengaged and the computer display doesn't show the letters of the gears, this has happened on four occasions over four days and +/- 150 kms. The speedometer also drops to zero. On three of the occasions, this has happened after travelling on a steep incline and after one steep decline.

Once the vehicle has come to a standstill I have turned the vehicle off and then restarted. After restarting, the brake warning light is illuminated (also message ABS faulty) and the vehicle will still not engage. After a short period, within 5 min, I am able to restart and drive as if nothing had happened.

Does anyone have any suggestions, other than replacing the gearbox control unit?
 

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Hi everybody, I am a new one on this forum.

First of all. Happy New Year to You!

As most of you I am also having problems with my CVT gearbox in a6 2003 2.5tdi.
Have had replaced gearbox ECU at 88k (a year ago) after all gearbox lights were flashing, fortunately all cost of £800 audi dealer put on themselves, calling it a goodwill or something like that.

From about 6 months my clutch seems to slip unless an engine gets warmed up so that very often I found it impossible to join the traffic at all.
The problem is gone every time after the engine cooling fluid reaches temperature of about 70-80C.

Does anyone have a similar problem?.

Is this possible it has something to do with old 5 plate clutch, I mean will the replacement with 7 plate one solve the problem?

And the last one does anyone know how to check the transmission oil level?

Thanks and warm regards.
 
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