**Power Window - is this a window regulator problem?** - Page 4 - Audi Forums
B6 Forum 2002-2005 Audi A4 & Audi A4 Cabriolet / 2004 Audi S4. (Audi A4 Forum, Audi S4 Forum, Audi RS4 Forum)

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post #31 of 34 (permalink) Old 10-30-2010, 06:58 PM
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Passenger rear went out. Found a guy local to do it for a little over 300. Stealership wanted 550-600
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post #32 of 34 (permalink) Old 11-23-2011, 02:47 PM
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will a new regulator fix this?

I have a similar but different problem. My front driver side window will sometimes not roll down. This usually happens after I have rolled it all the way up and the car is turned off. If I leave the window cracked the problem occurs less frequently, but will still randomly occur. When the window exhibits this problem, using the switch I can still roll it up to the top, but pushing the switch down has no effect (no clicking, motor noise, etc).

The only way I have found to fix this problem is by disconnecting the cars battery over night. Without fail, this will (temporarily) fix the issue and my driver's side window again works as expected.

I've had various electrical problems with the car including a bad Central Convenience Module that fails to respond in VAG (and which I have not yet replaced). Does anyone know if my problem is more likely the sign of a bad window regulator, or bad CCM?
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post #33 of 34 (permalink) Old 12-05-2011, 11:55 AM
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Unhappy Two regulators at the same time

Thanks to everyone for posting on this thread. Finally got straight answer about why two rear windows (2004 A6) both went haywire at same time. Not happy about the cost to fix, but can't drive around with windows randomly going up and down either. Getting less happy with Audi by the day.
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post #34 of 34 (permalink) Old 05-28-2012, 12:47 PM
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First post to this forum so be gentle. I have been successful at fixing these cheap. Audi window assemblies are great in that the whole regulator and window come out of the car as one unit. Other cars require removing the glass from the track.

That said I have seen two failures (apart from electronic) that kill the window. Both are plastic. First is the fracture of the upper pulley that runs the cable. Fix is to make one out of delrin and replace. The old one is captive with a riveted head that needs to be ground off. Delrin replacement slips on and due to the angle of the post needed no additional restraint.

Second plastic failure is in the carrier that holds the cable to the glass. The cable has a crimped bead that clamps into this carrier and the plastic of the carrier breaks allowing the bead to slip through. The fix here is to reposition cable bead in the broken carrier and then mix up a load of JB Weld putty. Press the putty into the carrier traping the bead. Do this with the window/regulator in the horizontal position so there is no chance the bead will slip through the putty. A few hours later it will be hard enough to place back in the car. Do not use for 24 hours.

When the epoxy putty has set run the regulator both directions until it hits its stops (switch held up or down until the window stops). This calibrates the regulator and auto up/down will be restored. Also works after a battery disconnect to restore auto up/down.

If that fails THEN buy the new regulator.
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