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post #1 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-06-2011, 01:04 PM Thread Starter
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Talking NOOB key question

Hey gys sorry for the dumb question but im new to the audi scene and just purchased a 96 A4 2.8 from my older brother who has been storing his car at my house... he moved back to michigan a while back and sold me the car last week. but he lost the keys ( mind u the only keys) to the car and i have been calling around to see what its gonna cost to replace it. problems is.. i have no idea what the key looks like. i see people talking about a key fobs and switchblade keys and have no idea where to start. do i buy a blank switchblade key? do i need a new fob? if anyone has a 96 A4 that could post some pics of their key id greatly appreciate it.
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post #2 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-09-2011, 07:10 AM
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Ebay has switchblade keys which you'll need to have cut. Your car will probably just have a key and seperate fob (being a '96 model). The key is has a black rectangular top with an Audi logo on, my blade has 'WITTE VELBERT' written on.

Audi will be able to replace the key but it's expensive, I'm new to the Audi scene but from my experience with VWs these will probably have a transponder chip inside meaning the key has to be coded to the car to allow it to disable the immobiliser.
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post #3 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-23-2011, 10:15 PM
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Contact a dealer to find out what proof of ownership you will need to prove it's your car. They will order a new key from Audi using the VIN once they are sure it's your car and it may well work without any coding being done. I did this with my 2000 S4. Apparently it was coded to the original code as it started the car. Cost about $50 I think(3 yr ago). The transponder is a seperate part. Not sure how to code the remotes or if you even have one on that car.
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post #4 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-27-2011, 01:45 AM
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Audi cars made before 2000.5+ for the US market don't have an immobiliser so you will only need to cut they key and adapt the remote control to your car's remote sensor.
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post #5 of 12 (permalink) Old 01-28-2011, 12:23 PM
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That's news to me, thanks. The Service manager told me it required coding but he could have been wrong or greedy. Do you perhaps have a serial number range associated with this? My S/N is 1356xx. I just detached my key from the fob, left the fob 20' away in the garage and the car still started. So that proves to me, my car dosen't have immobilzer protection. Time to add an ignition cutout like in my '67 Malibu !!!
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post #6 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 02:57 AM
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Sorry but I don't understand what kind of serial number range you are talking about.
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post #7 of 12 (permalink) Old 02-23-2011, 11:53 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Cristisor View Post
Sorry but I don't understand what kind of serial number range you are talking about.
S4's built in the early part of the 2000 model year do NOT have an immobolizer. I just found this out in a different thread somewhere. To test this, I removed just the key from the entire Fob. Left the remote/fob in the house 50' from the car. I then started the car with just the metal part of the key. When I bought this car it had only one key/remote/ I bought the remote online and ordered the key Asm. from Audi. They told me the key needed to be "coded" to the car when it arrived. When I picked up the key I decided to make sure the key was cut correctly and when it started the car I was surprised. When I told the service Mgr I didn't need the Coding service he was as surprised as me. I had thought since it was bought from Audi using my VIN that they had somehow restored it to factory ID. Now I know I do NOT have the Immobolizer feature. My VIN is 135xxx. I do not know the cutoff VIN.
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post #8 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-04-2011, 01:16 AM
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looks like i'm far behind on this topic. but i simply put this issue off until now. the person i bought my b5 a4 off of also "lost his main key" and sold it to me with not even the secondary key.... but the THIRD key. doesn't open the trunk. doesn't open the back seat latch. doesn't lock or unlock my glove compartment.

Clearly this can complicate things, without having a key with the same cut pattern, it would be idiotic to buy an uncut key offline and have it cut somewhere, because it would have the same limits as this stupid tertiary key.

So i spoke with a "specialist" at a stealership, and they told me that the key and the fob are "two separate parts" so to pay for the parts, it counts as two. so that was already over a hundred dollars. then i had to get the remote programmed to the NEW key. and i think the entire operation ended up costing over three hundred dollars. this is most undesirable.

my question to you guys: do i really need to have all that crap done?
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post #9 of 12 (permalink) Old 03-06-2011, 06:17 PM
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I can only input what I experienced. My 2000 S4 had one key when I bought it. Now the key/remote/Immobilizer is a 3 piece package. The Key is a metal blank whic may be removed by opening it partially and pushing out the locking pin. The Immobilizer is the FOB half that the ket is attached to. The remote is the other half of the FOB. Thes two are seperated to gain acces to the battery for the remote.
I bought used remotes off Ebay. These are matched/paired to the car in a simple procedure, but you need TWO keys thay will work the ignition and door lock.
Try this, it's from the Bentley:

Programming new remote controls

Two keys and all the remote controls that are to be programmed
will be needed. The maximum number of remote controls that can be
programmed, including old and new, is four.

- Insert first key into ignition switch, and turn it to
"ignition on."


- Insert second key into outer door handle, and turn it to
unlocked position for 10 seconds.

System alarm will emit three beeps.

- Take first remote control to be programmed and press button
-1-, two beeps will be emitted. For second remote control, press
button -1-, two beeps will be emitted. Use same procedure to program
third or fourth remote control. All remote controls must be programmed
within one minute, otherwise new programming will cancel and old
remote control programming will be valid.

- Turn key in outer door handle to unlocked position for 10
seconds, one beep will be emitted.

- Switch ignition off.

If your car is an early 2000, it may not have an immobilizer!!! To test push out the pin on you good FOB, leave the FOB 20-30 ft from the car. Now use JUST the metal key to start the car(pliars may be needed to turn it). If it starts...you DO NOT have to have anything done at the dealer.
The key blank may be cut by any locksmith with the proper machine for that style key. If you want, the key may be purchased with the Immobilizer from the dealer. Most states require you to bring the car and registration/title to the dealer or locksmith to verify ownership. I thought my car had the Immobilizer so I bought the key/Immobilizer at the dealer. Cost was about $100 far as I recall. I tried the key to be sure the blank was cut correctly and was surprized when the car started. So I went back inside and told the Service Mgr I didn't need the pairing service and he seemed as surprized as me.
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post #10 of 12 (permalink) Old 04-05-2011, 11:24 AM
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96's don't have anykind of immobilizer or remote built into the key (maybe a separate FO. The original Audi key is a square black plastic headed key with a small flashlight in it that lights up when you push the button in the center of the head of the key. My son's car (a 96 A4 Quattro) does have some kind of internal alarm built into it, but I think its only armed if you use the key to lock the door as you get out. Theres nothing that shows up in VAG-COM relating to the alarm system so I think its purely a mechanically armed (by the key in the door) type system. All I know is that it has never gone off on us yet.

You can probably go to the dealer with the VIN and proof of ownership, and have them cut you a new key for a small peice of the national debt.
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