door locks not working on 1999 A4

[audibob]

bought a used 1999 A4 Quattro 5V, 106k miles, only has 1 flip-style 2-button remote key, red button on side. the remote does not operate the doors. However, the key itself will lock & unlock drivers door and set alarm, however the key will not lock or unlock the pasengers door and the 2 rear doors. i have replaced the batteries in the keyfob and I even purchased a new remote keyfob and the remote buttons still do not operate the doors. there is not any noise in the actuators. what should I check out first?

[kirskor]

when you press unlock once it only opens driver door, press unlock second time and hold to open the rest.
With the key in the door turn to unlock and hold...your windows should go down.
turn back to lock and hold, your windows will go up.
I hope it helps

[audibob]

kirskor, thanks for the reply. I have edited my original post. The keyfob does not operate the doors remotely because I think there is a deeper problem.

[docurley]

Sound like you need to reprogram the key or the Battery is dead.

[ini]

Does the key physically unlock the trunk?

If it doesnt, and it inserts fully into the other doors but does not turn, there is likely a new drivers door and ignition barrel fitted that weren't matched to the existing locks.

Can you hear the locking pump in the boot trying to work?

I would check that your remote part number matches your car, because if the above situation is correct, the remote may not even work on your car. It will save a lot of trouble and head scratching to find this out first.

[docurley]

I have to say it does sound like you have a new lock in the drivers door which in turn might meant they never fitted it correctly.

[audibob]

I purchased a new key/remote unit from Audi dealer. Both the original and the new key have the same problem.
The keys will lock and unlock the drivers door, this is the only door with a key lock. The keys will also lock and unlock the trunk. The keys will raise and lower all of the windows as they are supposed to do. The problem is when the key is turned in the drivers door - the other doors will not unlock or lock. There is not any sound from the doors at all. The keys will also set and disarm the alarm just fine. I am not concerned about the remote unit at this time -- I think it just needs to be programed properly. My main conern right now is being able to lock and unlock the doors. The door lock switch on the drivers door also does not work to lock or unlock any of the doors.

[docurley]

Well the fact that the doors will not lock with the key in the door will point to one or three things either the car got a new pump and it’s not coded in (would explain why the remote don’t work) or the pump is dead, the last thing could be the switch in the door is not working.

Here are some write-ups to help you out.

Symptoms of Failure: The door and trunk lock begins to slow and/or completely stops working. The central alarm still activated but the locks do not engage. If you check for fault code 01367 - Central Locking Pump Run Time Exceeded (Likely Leak)

Cause/Failure Mode: The central locking module's pump has a graphite compressor wheel that shatters into many pieces.


Part Number:
8L0 862 257 N (Valid for 1999-2001, please check ETKA or your car's equipped unit before ordering a replacement)


Repair Procedure:
1. The central locking pump is located in the trunk on the passenger rear corner. In order to access it you need to remove the trunk floor
.
2. Remove the lower trunk plastic trim


3. Then remove the cubbie holder by pulling it straight up. The holder is attached to the liner by a plastic slide.

4. Pull the liner away. Note there are two snap retainers located right behind the passenger lights. (on the right side of picture above)
5. Disconnect the two spade connectors from the back of the liner

6. The central locking pump is located in the foam show here.

7. Pull back the foam to reveal the pump

8. Disconnect the hold back tie that is holding the cables and vacuum lines. This will permit easier access to disconnect the connections.

9. Disconnect the three electrical connections. To remove the vacuum connection use 2 flat head screwdrivers insert them as shown, and spread the plastic fingers in order to get the white plastic connectors off the pump air nipples.

10. Installation is the opposite of removal. Attach the connections, place back into position, reinsert foam, passenger liner, trunk trim, and cubby.
11. You will need to reprogram the keys to communicate with the new central locking controller.

Central Locking Pump Repair
Tools needed:

Phillips Screwdriver Small flat tipped screwdriver
Hacksaw or Dremel tool with cutoff wheel
Soldering iron or crimping pliers and crimp connectors.
One day I tried to lock my car and noticed that my door locks were not working. I realized that the vacuum control module was not working. I removed the module and opened it up. Upon further inspection, I found out that the graphite compressor wheel had shattered making the module useless.

Image Courtesy of WJM

I called the dealer and was shocked to find out the cost of a replacement module was $538 dollars! Working with VWs, I knew there had to be a cheaper alternative. I went to the local pick and pull junkyard and purchased a vacuum module out of a 95 Passat. I removed the vacuum motor/compressor from the module before taking it to the register. I purchased it for $10.50.

With a small flat tipped screwdriver I pried open the gray plastic cover. On the opposite side, I pushed the rubber compressor mounts (nipples) through the case so that I could remove the pump motor assembly. I took the pump motor out and compared it to the Audi pump. I realized that with little modifications the VW pump could be adapted to work with the Audi control unit. Note: Upon further inspection, I observed that the Passat compressor wheel [on the right in the below image] was twice as thick and the compressor-mounting bracket was thicker than the “new and improved” Audi design.





When I placed the Passat assembly into the control module I noticed that the plastic hard line was slightly shorter and needed to be cut and lengthened in order for it to fit into the slot for the vacuum control unit. I cut the hard line coming from the compressor in half at the middle with a hack saw (a Dremel tool can be used) and inserted a 1 inch piece of vacuum line between the cut hard line.



I clipped the motor wires and took the easy route by crimping the wires. You can solder the wires if you prefer.



Insert the motor back into the case. Pull the rubber mounting tabs through the holes until the nipple is locked in place. Place the control board in, install the case cover and you're done. No need for reprogramming the keys because you're using the original module.

Programing remotes

Resyncing Remotes to the Car
I can't guarantee that I got all the steps but I'll try... from the number of steps you'll see why you should let the service tech do it. ;-)
1) Stand next to car
2) Unlock car
3) Close all doors
4) Put a key in the ignition
5) Turn to accessory
6) Put remote 1 in and lock door (leave in door)
7) Allow remote 1 to rock back from the lock position (I think you leave it in this position)
8) Hold unlock button down for 10 seconds
9) Press unlock button once for remote 1
10) Repeat #7 & #8 (don't change the remote in the door)
11) Press unlock button twice for remote 2
12) Repeat again for remote 3 if you have one