I have the same shudder problem with my 2.5 TDI 2002. It shudders when "shifting" at lower RPM's like 1200-1400. Same happends in drive or tiptronic mode, although this is much less in tiptronic because it usually shifts at higher RPM's. However, I have no more warranty on this car, so I am wonderring what is best to do. I will appreciate all advises.
And yes, VAG diagnostic computers reports error 18149 - Clutch pressure adaptation at limit.
1. Shell I try just to replace this 5-plates clutch with 7-plates clutch? Is there some gearbox computer software upgrade needed also? I am not sure I can do this kind of service in my country (Serbia), though. Official dealer told me about some official company repairing just automatic gearboxes, but these guys told me they don't repair multitronic, just tiptronic. Does anyone know some service in Hungary or Bulgaria able to do this? Otherwise, I supose the closest good service is in Austria. Can someone tell me if this completely removes the problem and what is approximate price for the repairment?
2. Or shell I just buy a new multitronic gearbox which costs 6500 euros here in Serbia. This is official dealers price and I have to return to them my old gearbox. Is it possible to get this cheaper in some other surrounding country (Hungary, Bulgaria, Romania, Austria)?
3. Another solution is to buy another used multitronic gearbox, approx. 1800 euros, but then how I know how long it will last? And I even don't know if it already has seven plates clutch or is it old version with five plates clutch.
4. Or to switch to manual gearbox and finish with the problems? I can buy used manual gearbox for approx. 800 euros. Total cost of manual gearbox and all other parts (pedals, handle, ...) including changing in service would be approx. 1500 euros.
5. Finally, is it possible to put some other kind of automatic gearbox (tiptronic) into this car?
Please help, I am desperate with this problem.
Go in an inclination road, place the D position and stay in brake and gas pedal relased. If the vehicle go in oposite direction the ECU understand the direction and tune the signal to solenoids for stay fixed in the position. So you can autocorrect the transmission. Repeat this procedure and I think that you can see the difference, if no your transmission need inside intervent. Also adding about 700-800 gr of oil overfilling. This transmission is more sensible for the oil quantity. Ciao
Go in an inclination road, place the D position and stay in brake and gas pedal relased. If the vehicle go in oposite direction the ECU understand the direction and tune the signal to solenoids for stay fixed in the position. So you can autocorrect the transmission. Repeat this procedure and I think that you can see the difference, if no your transmission need inside intervent. Also adding about 700-800 gr of oil overfilling. This transmission is more sensible for the oil quantity. Ciao
I would like to clarify this procedure. Example the car is uphill (inclined road). Breaks should be released and not applied? Gas pedal should should also be released. If it is uphill, car should try to lock in place by moving forward? If downhill car should move in reverse to try to lock in place? How steep should the inclined road be?
I would like to clarify this procedure. Example the car is uphill (inclined road). Breaks should be released and not applied? Gas pedal should should also be released. If it is uphill, car should try to lock in place by moving forward? If downhill car should move in reverse to try to lock in place? How steep should the inclined road be?
the road must be 30°-40° inclined. so, in this condition, go in D position and release both the pedals of gas and brake:the ECU will understand that the car is going to move backward an will try to avoid this movement intervening on the transmission. This procedure will automatically correct the transmission. Is also important that the oil is in level or a bit plus. Make a control of the level and add also others 700-800 gr.
I just recently bought an A4 B6 2.0 with CVT from a used car dealer, which still has 3 month warranty.
The dealer brought this car, just before I bought it to a transmission place, which repaired the CVT by replacing the Transmission Control Module. The rest of the gear box was checked out and no other problems were apparent.
But some times when I drive off slowly from the traffic lights, especially if there are a few passengers in the car, the car would shutter. It doesn't do this persistently, and a friend thinks this is normal for a CVT to do sometimes due to the design.
I just recently bought an A4 B6 2.0 with CVT from a used car dealer, which still has 3 month warranty.
The dealer brought this car, just before I bought it to a transmission place, which repaired the CVT by replacing the Transmission Control Module. The rest of the gear box was checked out and no other problems were apparent.
But some times when I drive off slowly from the traffic lights, especially if there are a few passengers in the car, the car would shutter. It doesn't do this persistently, and a friend thinks this is normal for a CVT to do sometimes due to the design.
The question is, is this really normal?
Thanks
Hello awulf!
This transmission has problem with TCU, but the shudder during the deceleration is not normal for a CVT-Multitronic.
The possible cause:
1.The battery drop voltage - change the battery
2.The mechanicall mismatch - belt roller pin consumation or variator pulley surface
Hello awulf!
This transmission has problem with TCU, but the shudder during the deceleration is not normal for a CVT-Multitronic.
The possible cause:
1.The battery drop voltage - change the battery
2.The mechanicall mismatch - belt roller pin consumation or variator pulley surface
Thanks for the info. The shuddering occasionally happens during slow acceleration not deceleration, which I'm guessing isn't normal also? I'll contact the dealer to fix the problem.
My Audi dealer has informed me that the gearbox control unit needs to be replaced on my Audi A4 2002 3.0 Multitronic. It has done 102000 kms. The gearbox was replaced 18 months ago under the maintenance plan.
The symptoms have been as follows:
The gearbox automatically disengaged and the computer display doesn't show the letters of the gears, this has happened on four occasions over four days and +/- 150 kms. The speedometer also drops to zero. On three of the occasions, this has happened after travelling on a steep incline and after one steep decline.
Once the vehicle has come to a standstill I have turned the vehicle off and then restarted. After restarting, the brake warning light is illuminated (also message ABS faulty) and the vehicle will still not engage. After a short period, within 5 min, I am able to restart and drive as if nothing had happened.
Does anyone have any suggestions, other than replacing the gearbox control unit?
As most of you I am also having problems with my CVT gearbox in a6 2003 2.5tdi.
Have had replaced gearbox ECU at 88k (a year ago) after all gearbox lights were flashing, fortunately all cost of £800 audi dealer put on themselves, calling it a goodwill or something like that.
From about 6 months my clutch seems to slip unless an engine gets warmed up so that very often I found it impossible to join the traffic at all.
The problem is gone every time after the engine cooling fluid reaches temperature of about 70-80C.
Does anyone have a similar problem?.
Is this possible it has something to do with old 5 plate clutch, I mean will the replacement with 7 plate one solve the problem?
And the last one does anyone know how to check the transmission oil level?
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