Maybe silly question this(so ill apologise first)
Do you need to have Xenon set up front light clusters to be able to have DRLS..
Or can this option be activated on normal front A4(Sline o6) light cluster......
As far as I know only the biXenon units have DRLs, simply because on the non-Xenon models, the DRL space is occupied by the high beam halogen bulb, whereas on the Xenons, the Xenon unit mechanically moves to provide both high and low beam. Hence the space left 'free' by not needing a separate high beam is utilised for the DRL.
FYI, I note that people are often supplied with 10 or even 6 ohm resistors for the DRL bypass. These get extremely hot and are quite unnecessarily low values. A 24 ohm will work fine and suppress the bulb failure - so you clearly don't need to draw the equivalent to the full current of a 21W bulb. Even more FYI, if you fit LED sidelights, you only need a 68 ohm bypass. These values for B7 A4/RS4.
Interesting Andy. I'm not seeking to argue with you, as your experience is clearly your experience, but let me share my experience.
I've got a '06 B7 RS4, and starting out to replace the side and DRL bulbs as an experienced electrical/electronic guy, i indeed 'calculated' the resistor value to replicate current draw of the existing bulbs. And by that logic the DRL bypass resistor is indeed in the 6-10 ohm range. However, the heat dissipation is huge. I didn't want to mount the resistors externally with all the hassle that generates. I wanted low enough dissipation that i could mount the 2 resistors INSIDE the removable 'cap' on the headlight assembly.
So, i ran a series of tests and eventually concluded on 24 ohm (50W) for the DRL and 68 ohm (25W) for the side. I have 100% tested and have no bulb failure indications per your tiresmoke article under any set of conditions. (On or off or DRL on the xenons coming on automatically etc etc). Also it's not breached the sealing on the cap, doesn't run hot and is seriously neat. Pix on request.
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