Over the past couple of weeks I've read various threads on this forum regarding a misfire/idle/sluggish acceleration.
Well I've got the same type of problems, I took the car for a service and had the guy look over at the problem he found a split hose which he replaced and problem was totally gone for a few days.
Then it started again, the cut cuts out whenever I try reversing and when the engine is started theres 4 erratic idles before it stabilises but not 100%.
I've noticed putting in premium fuel eleviates the problem somewhat but I want to know how to totally fix it.
Also can anyone recommend a good independent audi specialist in birmingham UK.
My Mechanic thinks its the air flow meter which needs replacing, but on this forum i've read it could be the coil pack. Ignition Control Meter etc etc.
When you open up the bonnet there is quite abit of durt etc (if that helps) and i've only owned the car for about two week- mileage is 112000 (miles) but i'm pretty sure it's been clocked.
I'm not very savvy when it comes to motors can change a tyre, check the oil and thats about it. So any suggestions I don't want to spend £40 on a second hand air flow meter when i don't think thats the problem.
Hi, I Have A 1.6 Auto And Have The Same Problem. Can't Find Advice Anywhere. I Considered The Lambada Sensor But Like You Don't Want To Shell Out For A New One If Its Not The Problem. Please Let Me Know If You Have Any Luck.
My 2001 Audi A4 1.8T Quattro with 95,000 miles is idling rough while at stops. There are no check engine lights on. It seems to surge up and down as the RPM’s fluctuate. At times it will stabilize but then the surging returns a bit later. It also seems to happen when shifting in reverse and is triggered when turning the heat or AC fan off & on again. When accelerating from a stop it seems to miss a bit too…. but it seems to run just fine at higher speeds, etc.
I have replaced the Spark Plugs, Oxygen Sensors and Mass Air Flow meter (MAF) to no avail. It’s frustrating and I don’t want to dump any more money into it and NOT FIX it.
Were you ever able to find, diagnose and fix this problem? If so, PLEASE let me know….
Hi I have an A4 1.8 (98), and I had the same problems...
1. MAF needs changing especially if you get an error code that says something like "idle control system maximum regulation limit reached". A little bit expensive at about £60 (bearing in mind you have to pay a deposit and return your old one).
2. Next to the throttle body there is a small pipe that goes to another conection on the bottom of the throttle body assembly. his pipe is used to circulate unused air back into the system otherwise the MAF rading will be wrong. If this pipe is leaking, or in my case completely severed, then the amout of air it thinks its getting based on the reading from the MAF is wrong, and the idling goes to pot.
3. Finally, the actual butterfly in the throttle boday is know to build up carbon deposits. When idling, the butterfly sits nearly closed, but the carbon build up may make this gap smaller, in which case when idiling the engine wont be getting enough air, and the idling problems occur.
The cheapest thing to do first is to check the pipe, and make sure it's ok.
Also check other air intake pipes, and make sure there are no obvious problems.
If there is no code for the MAF or the using the VAG-COM software the MAF readings are OK, then the throttle body clean would be the next option.
Finally, if all else is OK, the MAF could be changed. Two of you mentioned 95000 and 112000 miles. Mine had 89000 when I had them done, so it is worth making these checks.
Thanks for that great insight. I have replaced both Oxygen Sensors, the MAF and put brand new spark plugs in... all for naught. Today I am putting in new Ignition Coil Plugs in hopes this might cure it.
If not, then I guess it's on to, as you mentioned, the pipe, vacuum lines and/or cleaning the carbon out of the throttle body.
Did these actions you mention alleviate your problem and yield more stable idling? Can you clean the throttle body yourself? What might it cost to have done?
On mine, all the things I mentioned needed doing. Not one thing was causing, but all of them added to the problem. You might notice that let's say you're doin 30mph in second (3000-3500 rpm), and you put your foot down, you will get a flat spot in the acceleration.
Doing all of the above fixed it for me, and now I get all available power right across the rev range. I have also noticed that when I rev it now in neutral and let go, the revs drop cleanly to idle, and when it gets there it doesn't overshoot, ie the revs dont fall below idle and then come up, and the idling is perfect now... The is no engine vibratio at all in idle now.
You can clean the throttle body yourself, but when you put it back, you have to reset the basic settings. This is because when you put the throttle body back again it never goes back in exactly the same position, and the ecu loses track of this, and it can cause it to stall until reset. For this reason, I actually took it to a audi specialist (not the dealer cos im not rich enough for that!), and they did the whole thing both clean and reprogram. It cost me £50.00...
From my experience the spark plugs wont affect idling too much unless they are really bad, but it's god you had them done. The MAF is more sensitive, and definitely needed to be done...
Aside from what I mentioned so far, the only thing you can maybe do is make sure the air filter is ok, or maybe replace it for the £4 it costs.
I also have the same now, I had to change two VAC hoses, but still not solved. I tried to disconnect the MAF sensor and i was suprised the idle problem is still there so is that normal??? am afraid to change the MAF and then I will discover it's the lambada fault!!!!
I have the same problem with my 1.8t I have been doing a lot of research on this and I am I the middle of doing some repairs and if I figure out the problem I will let you all know the outcome but if anyone out there has any in please let us know thanks.
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