Diy Front Brakes

audipardner · 02-02-2006, 12:03 PM

First of all Hello.
I am new to this forum, and I have a question.
I have a 99 a4 2.8 and the main computer is showing a warning signal, it looks like an empty cicrle and has parentheses around it. like this (0)
I cannot find in the manual what this is indicating. I looked around the car and the only thing I found was that the outboard pad on the front brake has about 1/32" of meat left, or about 1 mm for those that are not restrained by the us measurement system.
Did I hit the bulls eye?
If so how hard are the pads to change?
I have changed many pads and rotors before but never on an audi.

cheesemax · 02-02-2006, 02:32 PM

First of all welcome to the group. I've never changed my brake pads but have a local independent (Audi) guy do it and I've never heard that the brakes on the A4 are anythin g out of the ordinary.
Good luck

audipardner · 02-02-2006, 10:19 PM

Ill keep you posted on how it goes and if I can keep my hands clean enough I may take pics and post them after.
How bout opinions on good pads to use?
I was thinking about Hawk performance pads.

sire283 · 02-03-2006, 04:43 PM

MAKE SURE YOU GET THE PADS THAT HAVE THE CHIP IN THEM. THAT WARNING LIGHT IS TELLING YOU THAT THE FRONT PADS NEED CHANGED. CHECK THE REAR AS WELL. I HAD BOTH DOWN BY A SHOP. BECAUSE YOU NEED TO RESET THE TROUBLE CODE. THERE IS A SENSOR THAT TRIPS IN THE FRONT ASSEMBLY. I WOULD HAVE A SHOP DO IT. DONT WANT TO MESS WITH THE ELECTRONICS ON THAT CAR.

volcanoblack · 02-03-2006, 11:52 PM

I don't know about resetting any codes; however, replacing the pads with the correct ones and connecting all the wires should make the light go out. Even if it doesn't you are better off having good brakes, not wearing down to the backing plates and ruining your rotors, and saving the money from having the dealer do it, then just pay the dealer to reset the "code" or light if necessary.

VB

JohnPodge · 02-05-2006, 08:20 AM

Greetings,
I have a 99 A4 also and just changed my rotors at 88K miles. I am familar with changing the pads as well. I did those about 1 year ago. Your factory front pads have a built in sensor with 2 wires. When the wear on the pads reach a certain point, the contact is broken and opens a circuit to turn on the light on your dash. It's working perfectly. If you buy the cheaper pads, they do not need to have the sensor. It's purpose is to tell you that the pads need changing, before you do damage to the rotors. If you decide to buy pads without the sensor, you can twist the two wires together with a wire nut, and tape it really well, then secure it to the hub. The light will go out by itself. There is an excellent web site that shows useful pictures on how to do this job. It also shows the tools you will need. You may also want to check the thickness of the rotors with calipers. The minimum thickness of the rotors were stamped on the side of my rotors, a little difficult to read. Good luck. If you do a google search "replace audi A4 rotors" you should see a web site listing about changing brake pads. Good luck

audipardner · 02-06-2006, 12:18 AM

Thanks for that info.
I have done several brake jobs before and once you do it youll never pay the hundreds of dollars that service shops want.
However I had a mazda once that had to have the rotors pressed onto the spindle and that was defintly out of my league.
my biggest concern is depressing the plunger(s) on the caliper. does it have to be twisted while being depressed or just depressed?

So back to the pads. does anyone have any opinoions about "HAWK" brand?
everything that I have heard so far is that they are pretty good pads.

Thanks again for your imput

biker_bits · 03-17-2006, 02:55 PM

Calipers:
Fronts are just a straight push . helps if you slaken the brake fluid bottle top to allow the fluid to flow back to tank as you push.
Rears (assuming they are disks) will need to be wound in as they incorporate parking brake. Large screwdriver blade is plenty good enough normally.

B5AUDIS4 · 03-17-2006, 09:55 PM

Hey, I just did the brakes on my S4. Not sure if they're the same though. They're pretty easy to do. Just unclip the springs holding them down, relieve some pressure from the caliper and then slide the pads out. I just switched from the standard rotor to a set of cross drilled and ceramic pads. I don't reccomend the pads though. They squeak really bad. I've heard the best to use is a set of the EBC green stuff. Specifically made for better braking performance. I just bought a set and haven't put them on yet. Will let you know how they work.

volcanoblack · 03-17-2006, 11:47 PM

I had my front pads replaced at the race track in Portland last weekend by the folks of Matrix Integrated since the pads that were on the car from the previous owner were not such good quality pads and faded before I even got in one track session. Matrix used Pagid pads and they worked great for the track all day. They did the whole job in about 15 minutes as shown on most of the articles referenced above, or here:

http://www.fastaudi.net/a4/library/frontpads.html

They did not use any special tool to push the pistons back in, just a big channel lock plier. Easy as pie. They didn't even charge any labor, just the cost of the pads.

What a deal - those guys at Matrix were great - they replaced a lot of pads that day - all for free. They also sponsored the event by providing a free lunch for everyone - lasagna and salad.

I do not work for them, nor do I get anything for promoting their company. They just did a great job for the NW Audi Club at our Son of Quattrofest track day. If you live near Portland, Oregon - give them a call for your service and performance needs.

http://www.matrixintegrated.cc/

There are lots of good pads, Pagid, EBC, Mintex, PBR and most of them will do as good if not better job than the stock pads. You probably can't go wrong with any of them. So far the Pagids are working well on the street too.

VB

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02-02-2006, 12:03 PM	#1 (permalink)
audipardner Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 14 Gallery: (0)	First of all Hello. I am new to this forum, and I have a question. I have a 99 a4 2.8 and the main computer is showing a warning signal, it looks like an empty cicrle and has parentheses around it. like this (0) I cannot find in the manual what this is indicating. I looked around the car and the only thing I found was that the outboard pad on the front brake has about 1/32" of meat left, or about 1 mm for those that are not restrained by the us measurement system. Did I hit the bulls eye? If so how hard are the pads to change? I have changed many pads and rotors before but never on an audi.

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02-02-2006, 02:32 PM	#2 (permalink)
cheesemax Senior Join Date: Feb 2005 Posts: 186 Gallery: (0)	First of all welcome to the group. I've never changed my brake pads but have a local independent (Audi) guy do it and I've never heard that the brakes on the A4 are anythin g out of the ordinary. Good luck

02-02-2006, 10:19 PM	#3 (permalink)
audipardner Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 14 Gallery: (0)	Ill keep you posted on how it goes and if I can keep my hands clean enough I may take pics and post them after. How bout opinions on good pads to use? I was thinking about Hawk performance pads.

02-03-2006, 04:43 PM	#4 (permalink)
sire283 Newbie Join Date: Oct 2005 Posts: 9 Gallery: (0)	MAKE SURE YOU GET THE PADS THAT HAVE THE CHIP IN THEM. THAT WARNING LIGHT IS TELLING YOU THAT THE FRONT PADS NEED CHANGED. CHECK THE REAR AS WELL. I HAD BOTH DOWN BY A SHOP. BECAUSE YOU NEED TO RESET THE TROUBLE CODE. THERE IS A SENSOR THAT TRIPS IN THE FRONT ASSEMBLY. I WOULD HAVE A SHOP DO IT. DONT WANT TO MESS WITH THE ELECTRONICS ON THAT CAR.

02-03-2006, 11:52 PM	#5 (permalink)
volcanoblack Senior Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Oregon, USA Posts: 195 Gallery: (0)	I don't know about resetting any codes; however, replacing the pads with the correct ones and connecting all the wires should make the light go out. Even if it doesn't you are better off having good brakes, not wearing down to the backing plates and ruining your rotors, and saving the money from having the dealer do it, then just pay the dealer to reset the "code" or light if necessary. VB

02-05-2006, 08:20 AM	#6 (permalink)
JohnPodge Newbie Join Date: Jan 2006 Posts: 3 Gallery: (0)	Greetings, I have a 99 A4 also and just changed my rotors at 88K miles. I am familar with changing the pads as well. I did those about 1 year ago. Your factory front pads have a built in sensor with 2 wires. When the wear on the pads reach a certain point, the contact is broken and opens a circuit to turn on the light on your dash. It's working perfectly. If you buy the cheaper pads, they do not need to have the sensor. It's purpose is to tell you that the pads need changing, before you do damage to the rotors. If you decide to buy pads without the sensor, you can twist the two wires together with a wire nut, and tape it really well, then secure it to the hub. The light will go out by itself. There is an excellent web site that shows useful pictures on how to do this job. It also shows the tools you will need. You may also want to check the thickness of the rotors with calipers. The minimum thickness of the rotors were stamped on the side of my rotors, a little difficult to read. Good luck. If you do a google search "replace audi A4 rotors" you should see a web site listing about changing brake pads. Good luck

02-06-2006, 12:18 AM	#7 (permalink)
audipardner Newbie Join Date: Feb 2006 Posts: 14 Gallery: (0)	Thanks for that info. I have done several brake jobs before and once you do it youll never pay the hundreds of dollars that service shops want. However I had a mazda once that had to have the rotors pressed onto the spindle and that was defintly out of my league. my biggest concern is depressing the plunger(s) on the caliper. does it have to be twisted while being depressed or just depressed? So back to the pads. does anyone have any opinoions about "HAWK" brand? everything that I have heard so far is that they are pretty good pads. Thanks again for your imput

03-17-2006, 02:55 PM	#8 (permalink)
biker_bits Newbie Join Date: Mar 2006 Posts: 5 Gallery: (0)	Calipers: Fronts are just a straight push . helps if you slaken the brake fluid bottle top to allow the fluid to flow back to tank as you push. Rears (assuming they are disks) will need to be wound in as they incorporate parking brake. Large screwdriver blade is plenty good enough normally.

03-17-2006, 09:55 PM	#9 (permalink)
B5AUDIS4 Senior Join Date: Mar 2005 Location: Beaverton, Or Posts: 168 Gallery: (0)	Hey, I just did the brakes on my S4. Not sure if they're the same though. They're pretty easy to do. Just unclip the springs holding them down, relieve some pressure from the caliper and then slide the pads out. I just switched from the standard rotor to a set of cross drilled and ceramic pads. I don't reccomend the pads though. They squeak really bad. I've heard the best to use is a set of the EBC green stuff. Specifically made for better braking performance. I just bought a set and haven't put them on yet. Will let you know how they work.

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03-17-2006, 11:47 PM	#10 (permalink)
volcanoblack Senior Join Date: Oct 2005 Location: Oregon, USA Posts: 195 Gallery: (0)	I had my front pads replaced at the race track in Portland last weekend by the folks of Matrix Integrated since the pads that were on the car from the previous owner were not such good quality pads and faded before I even got in one track session. Matrix used Pagid pads and they worked great for the track all day. They did the whole job in about 15 minutes as shown on most of the articles referenced above, or here: http://www.fastaudi.net/a4/library/frontpads.html They did not use any special tool to push the pistons back in, just a big channel lock plier. Easy as pie. They didn't even charge any labor, just the cost of the pads. What a deal - those guys at Matrix were great - they replaced a lot of pads that day - all for free. They also sponsored the event by providing a free lunch for everyone - lasagna and salad. I do not work for them, nor do I get anything for promoting their company. They just did a great job for the NW Audi Club at our Son of Quattrofest track day. If you live near Portland, Oregon - give them a call for your service and performance needs. http://www.matrixintegrated.cc/ There are lots of good pads, Pagid, EBC, Mintex, PBR and most of them will do as good if not better job than the stock pads. You probably can't go wrong with any of them. So far the Pagids are working well on the street too. VB