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Old 04-01-2009, 11:02 PM   #11 (permalink)
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I'm with kristin90s on this one to.
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Old 04-05-2009, 06:11 PM   #12 (permalink)
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Default audi 80 hesitation

thank you for that. timing belt will be checked.
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Old 04-05-2009, 06:19 PM   #13 (permalink)
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on another matter entirely i have an a6 1998 model. i just want to say that all owners must be made aware of the importance of cleaning out the plenum chamber under the battery as if the drain hole there gets blocked water builds up, and comes inside the car via the pollen filter. also this causes misting up when the filter gets wet. i only discovered this when driving along i noticed water sloshing out onto the road as i turned a corner.just a helpful hint!
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Old 04-14-2009, 06:44 AM   #14 (permalink)
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Quote:
Just to update, the mass air flow meter and all components are as they should be, have replaced ALL leads plugs dizzy cap rotor arm water and ecu coolent temps senders, have had AUDI to test all engine parts via there plug in testers which can out clear.
Hi, I have a '92 80 2.0E automatic (before that an '86 90 2.2 with a lovely 5-pot engine). IME not all faults will show up on a fault code reader, e.g. pinking (detonation) at high temperatures which is possibly due to the intake air temperature sensor in the airflow meter being faulty.

I'd try a different one if you can (I know you're not pinking, but try it all the same), and also a different fuel pump relay, distributor (if yours has a Hall sender that may be on the blink) or coil / ignition module (but not all at once !). I've had nasty problems with all those things. Oh, and check all rubber or plastic hoses if you haven't already ...

Good luck !

Last edited by j136snh; 04-14-2009 at 06:46 AM. Reason: Clarification
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:09 PM   #15 (permalink)
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Quote:
Originally Posted by j136snh View Post
Hi, I have a '92 80 2.0E automatic (before that an '86 90 2.2 with a lovely 5-pot engine). IME not all faults will show up on a fault code reader, e.g. pinking (detonation) at high temperatures which is possibly due to the intake air temperature sensor in the airflow meter being faulty.

I'd try a different one if you can (I know you're not pinking, but try it all the same), and also a different fuel pump relay, distributor (if yours has a Hall sender that may be on the blink) or coil / ignition module (but not all at once !). I've had nasty problems with all those things. Oh, and check all rubber or plastic hoses if you haven't already ...

Good luck !
To some extent about the code reader might be true, but a code rearder will pick-up a code for pinging(detonation), it would flash a code for the knock senors. G-61 knock sensor 1 or G-66 knock sensor 2. And the other things you mentioned there should throw a code at the ecu and back to a code reader. But yes check for vac leaks aswell.
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Old 04-14-2009, 02:44 PM   #16 (permalink)
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have had belt checked and deemed all ok. the bosch fuel injection system, (monotronic) is now diagnosed as faulty, apparently costing £300 or so to replace. is it economic to do? i like to think so as rest of car is 100% and totally original. the car is so good adn drives i ncredibley well when all ok with injection system. mileage is nearing 140,000 so only to be expected i guess. i am looking for a good 2nd hand unit with as low mileage as possible. shame.
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Old 04-16-2009, 08:42 AM   #17 (permalink)
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Originally Posted by evo1couperacing View Post
To some extent about the code reader might be true, but a code rearder will pick-up a code for pinging(detonation), it would flash a code for the knock senors. G-61 knock sensor 1 or G-66 knock sensor 2. And the other things you mentioned there should throw a code at the ecu and back to a code reader.
Well, I have to say, not on my 80, it didn't . I've had all those problems with it except the fuel pump relay (that was on a Coupe with K-jet), and my friendly local spannerman's code reader couldn't find any fault codes.

Westiebilly - was the Monotronic declared faulty by someone with a vested interest in replacing it (or selling you a new car) ? I don't know what 80s are worth where you are, but in the UK they're sadly undervalued, meaning that that sort of expenditure has to be carefully considered !

Why not check out some of the smaller items first ? I had a 90 which wouldn't idle because of a split in the underside of a small air hose ...
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Old 04-29-2009, 07:00 PM   #18 (permalink)
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following on the car is now in an audi dealership being checked out. before going in i found that car did not like having part throttle ie it was surging/hesitating/feeling like it was choking etc. it is worse after last garage deemed fuel system needed replacing. oh well... we will see what the audi guys make of it. i am persevering....
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Old 05-04-2009, 07:47 AM   #19 (permalink)
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following on the car is now in an audi dealership being checked out. before going in i found that car did not like having part throttle ie it was surging/hesitating/feeling like it was choking etc. it is worse after last garage deemed fuel system needed replacing. oh well... we will see what the audi guys make of it. i am persevering....
well. i have car back now and the audi garage have drawn a blank although to be fair they did find a small split hose which has now been replaced. they did suggest lambda sensor but since i put a limit of £400 funding on them they have not replaced it. they have tested all they can ( kept car for 6 days too doing tests as time permitted) including fuel pressure etc and all seems ok so i may well replace the oxygen/lambda thingy. i hope it's not hard to do!if i can get one that is! the car does seem a little smoother but still hesitates/gasps for breath when pulling away above 2000 revs or so. starts A1 when cold or hot too. i'm glad i'm a patient man!
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Old 07-02-2009, 02:05 PM   #20 (permalink)
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Unhappy Engine missing and power loss. Audi 80 E 2.0 ABK

I routed the problem to, wot i thought, the throttle body, bolted to the inlet manifold. If i just tweek the second throttle valve very gently by hand, just enough to start opening the valve, with the engine running it surges very badly. it runs then cuts out then runs again Very odd!!!!!! I have changed everything at great expence, but just cant think what the prob is. i changed, plugs, leads, rotor arm, dizzy cap, temp sensers (3 of them), mass air flow meter, the entire throttle body, have had audi check the ecu, that shows no faults. When cold it drops off the revs just once or twice at 1500/2000 revs, starts, runs, drives perfect untill you need to drive it a little harder i.e. overtaking, if i press the thottle to hard it almost cuts out before it goes. Im gunna replace the E.C.U. and the throttle position relay and then thats it, im given up. Its a shame because the cars 14 yrs old (94) only got 75k with full audi history, 2.0 audi 80 E ABK but aint worth anything. If any of you can figure this out please let us all know.
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