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#1 (permalink) |
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Newbie
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Hi some people on this forum seam to have suffered with this problem at some time or other but know one seams to have nailed it.
I have been suffering for ( or should I say the car ) some time now but hear is a run down of events and some one tell me what to do next. Firstly: I changed the plugs,dizzy cap, rotor arm, plug leads, fuel filter none made the slightist bit of differance! Second : Checked the out put from the exhaust still the same ( sorry forgot to mention the co content is 9.00 hc 4000 and lamda reading 1.78) Next: removed the cat , fitted a new lamda probe, new fuel pressure regulator checked compressions and guess what ... exactly the same. Next :Tride to remove ones hair with bear hands.... Next : Fitted a new Water temp sensor , still the same , then gave up and called for EXPERT HELP Next EXPERT came to car read faults ,which their was none, so he hooked up is fancy gizmo took 50 pounds from me and told me it was a very common fault ........the ECU but in the next breath said it could be the COIL . Next : sent the ECU to be tested and yep youve guessed it not a fault found so I took to his second suggestion and changed the coil which comes with the ignition amp and guess what the car runs exectly the same. Next : ( hope you are not getting board!) got yet another EXPERT to hook his gizmo up to the car and bet his life on the problem being the VALVE timing he then took 50 pound from me and said " ring me up when youve done it and thank me " guess what I changed the belt and.....I rang him up to tell him that it did not work he hung up..how frustrating!!!! NEXT ; Took the car to a AUDI specialist, 5 whole weeks later , 70 pounds lighter and yet another lamda probe! I went to collect my REPAIRED car ................ THIS IS THE BEST BIT : as follows; 1 open bonett make sure that IAC valve plug is on. 2 start car 3 after starting car and revs are at 5000 remove plug from IAC valve 4 close bonett and drive car with no judder or misfire...... or any acceleration or fear of stopping.... and with a petrol tanker behind you just in case you run out of fuel because it uses that much. What thay had done is broke open the air flow meter and moved the wiper so it over fuels more making the revs high meaning that the IAC valve has to be disconected!!!!!!!! THANK YOU FOR READING THE ABOVE AS YOU HAVE READ I AM VERY FRUSTRATED WHAT CAN I DO NEXT SOME ONE MUST KNOW PLEASE HELP MANY THANKS PHILL66. |
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#3 (permalink) | |
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Newbie
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Quote:
All I had to do was find the relay , which is where you said it was , under the steering colum. If you remove the relay and remove the cover from it you will see a small printed circuit in the corner is a soldered joint if you solder this joint back up and put the relay back in it should rectify the problem. PROFESSIONALS WHO NEEDS THEM !!!!! |
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#4 (permalink) |
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Newbie
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Further to Phil's original post:
My car is a 1996 2.0E with the ABK engine. When driving at around 2000 revs, sometimes lower in say 3rd gear just "feathering" the accelerator in slow moving traffic the engine feels like it pulls back briefly then returns to normal, this happens several times and sometimes it can be quite severe. When stationary the revs go up and down around the 1000 mark and you can not only feel but see the car bonnet rock around. The next time I drive the car she's absolutly fine and when stationary stays crack on 1000 ! Another fault currently being (hopefully) fixed at The Lion Garage, Leicester is a starting problem. Basically the car just turns over first thing in the morning without firing. After doing this a few times I can just about manage to catch her firing and get her going. After this she starts all the time during the day, until the next morning. I've been told it could be the cold start 5th injector, temperature sensor, fuel filter, HT leads and coil ! They've fitted new HT leads and a new coil today, so we'll see tomorrow ! I hope this of interest and someone could help. I've took note of replacing the relay No 30. Regards, Andy
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506 PIR, 101st Airborne |
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