Strange Turbo 'No Start' after Timing belt change

[WEDixon]

Hi All;
Here's the situation. I replaced the water pump and timing belt on my '86 5000 2.2L Turbo (MC) and when finished, it started right up and idled fine (pleasantly smug!). However, there was some 'ticking/clattering' noise, and after 1-2 minutes idling, I turned it off WITH THE KEY!! Since the car had been sitting for a month, I thought that might be the lifters low on oil, (although the noise was somewhat louder than I would have expected). When I returned when a stethoscope, she would NOT START! Cranks fine, but no start.
I then noticed that I could not hear the elect fuel pump pre-pressurizing the line so changed the fuel pump relay - still no 'buzz' with key 'on'. Then hot wired the FP directly, pump buzzing merrily (thankfully). Loosened the banjo fitting downstream (output) on the fuel filter, with fuel spraying out with good pressure. Re-connected fuel line - still no start.
Then double checked the timing marks (flywheel/cam gear dot/distributor notch) and all seems fine, set as per Bentley. Then removed the high tension lead from the center of the distributor and held it next to the head, what do you know, no spark. But, should it arc to the alloy head?
Did a fault code 'blink-blink' test and got blink fault 2113 ("VAG 1551/2 Fault code No. 00515 Hall sender in distributor Distributor alignment, faultly sender, Mis-located sensor and distributor" as per SJM Autotechnik web site) But distributor wasn't removed, and Hall sender wasn't touched. And since it was running prior to turning it off - what gives??
I'm having difficulty finding what connection, if any, there is to these symptoms. Or am I just fortunate to have multipe/concurent failures?
Anyways, whats next?
Any Help?

[fisher mathew]

Hi
You are not clear with your thoughts, will you give more information. So I can help you out in this matter.

[Harvey Smith]

Just guessing, but did you get the timing belt snugged up and bolted at water pump?.. Belt may have jumped when you shut it down.. Possibly was making the noises..

[audiqv8]

Originally Posted by WEDixon

Hi All;
Here's the situation. I replaced the water pump and timing belt on my '86 5000 2.2L Turbo (MC) and when finished, it started right up and idled fine (pleasantly smug!). However, there was some 'ticking/clattering' noise, and after 1-2 minutes idling, I turned it off WITH THE KEY!! Since the car had been sitting for a month, I thought that might be the lifters low on oil, (although the noise was somewhat louder than I would have expected). When I returned when a stethoscope, she would NOT START! Cranks fine, but no start.
I then noticed that I could not hear the elect fuel pump pre-pressurizing the line so changed the fuel pump relay - still no 'buzz' with key 'on'. Then hot wired the FP directly, pump buzzing merrily (thankfully). Loosened the banjo fitting downstream (output) on the fuel filter, with fuel spraying out with good pressure. Re-connected fuel line - still no start.
Then double checked the timing marks (flywheel/cam gear dot/distributor notch) and all seems fine, set as per Bentley. Then removed the high tension lead from the center of the distributor and held it next to the head, what do you know, no spark. But, should it arc to the alloy head?
Did a fault code 'blink-blink' test and got blink fault 2113 ("VAG 1551/2 Fault code No. 00515 Hall sender in distributor Distributor alignment, faultly sender, Mis-located sensor and distributor" as per SJM Autotechnik web site) But distributor wasn't removed, and Hall sender wasn't touched. And since it was running prior to turning it off - what gives??
I'm having difficulty finding what connection, if any, there is to these symptoms. Or am I just fortunate to have multipe/concurent failures?
Anyways, whats next?
Any Help?

Since this happened after a timing belt changed, then I would check your timing again. It could be that the timing was right-on when you initally started the car, but could now be off. There are three signals that the ECU needs before it will send a trigger signal to the coil.

1. Crank signal (Timing reference)
2. cam signal (Hall sender inside the distributor)
3. RPM (engine rpm )

The cam and crank signal must also be in sync (timing dead on) before the ECU will send a trigger signal. Could be that there was slack in the timing belt which alllowed you to startup one time, but now the cam and crank signals are no longer in sync.

See link for more info.
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