[Jkilla71]

I changed the plugs but did not have a plug gaper at the time and soon as I hit the gas the engine light came on. I then pulled the plugs out and gaped them @ .28. I then put everything back together and took it for a ride. The skip was gone but the car still didn’t have all its power back.

I then went to Advanced Auto and had the code read: cylinder 2 & 3 had a misfire. I still was not convinced it was the coil packs due to many posts I have read about people replacing the coil packs and still having a misfire. I then bought some MAF cleaner and cleaned-up the MAF. I took the car for a drive and I was still not totally satisfied with the car but I remember thinking the performance felt better. I am not sure what the reason but the engine light had gone off by itself the next time I shut it down and restarted it but it still felt like it wasn’t 100%.


I then bought and installed the N75 “J” valve and 4 new coil packs and I think the car is faster than I can ever remember now.

Unfortunately I am not sure what was the deciding factor with fixing my car but I only spent a couple hundred dollars and it is running great now.

I also bought the “Panzer Skid Plate” from dieselgeek.com (awesome product) because I had a weak moment and had let Jiffy Lube change my oil. They couldn’t get my lower belly pan back on and my buddy witnessed the Tech rip it off the car and discard it. I told the manger and he yelled at the Tech but when I got it home the belly pan was dragging due to some screws missing and had a big rip. I blame myself for using them but the aluminum skid plate from diesel geek is well worth the $250 and it also amplifies the whistle from the turbo nicely.


TY

JG

I also added a 5 bar FPR that I forgot when I did the above changes